People who own brand-new houses or bought a unit in a condominium want to add a character to bare walls. Even with minimalist enthusiasts, they want to place at least a piece of decoration on the wall, be it a single picture, painting, sculpture, emblem, or a display of colorful lights.

For more traditional homes, they can have the wall painted with custom designs. However, many opt for the easier method-putting wallpaper on the walls. A common material for interior design, wallpaper is a paper material that can be used to beautify the interior walls of rooms, houses, and offices. Wallpapers are available in all home improvement stores and are sold in rolls. People can choose between plain wallpaper, which can be painted afterward, or pre-printed ones with patterns and designs.

The proper installation of wallpapers is crucial to avoid imperfections. While they are beautiful, a flaw in the installation is easily highlighted. Flaws include tears, misaligned patterns, air bubbles, and stains.

So how do you properly install, say, a wallpaper with a fleur de lis wall art motif? Here are some tips

1. The first step is to prepare the wall itself. Arguably, this is the most important step. The wall should be completely smooth, otherwise bumps and crevices will show through the paper. Too make sure that the wall is dry and clean. If the wall is wet, it will reduce the stickiness of the wallpaper paste since the adhesive is usually water based. For the same reason, the wall should also be clean.

2. If the wall is covered by old wallpaper, the old wallpaper should be removed. You can do this by perforating and scraping the old wallpaper, brushing water on it so that the old glue will dissolve, use a commercial wallpaper remover, or use steam. All traces of the old wallpaper should be cleared.

3. You will want the paper to hang straight. Therefore, divide the wall into sections. It would be easier for you if you would mark the divisions with a pencil. The mark will serve as a guide.

Measure each section so you would know the amount of wallpaper you need. Cut the paper to the right size according to the measurements. It would be wise to add a few inches to the measurement to ensure that no bare space would show.

3. Put the first strip on top of the wall. Apply the glue to each subsection as you work your way down. If the wallpaper you are using has a self-adhesive backing, peel back the wax paper little by little. As you work your way down, get rid of any air bubbles by pressing the paper firmly against the wall. Try to keep the paper straight until you reach the bottom.

4. When you start working on the adjacent section, make sure the fleur de lis wall art symbols align with those of the previously installed section. By aligning them, the wall design will have a seamless, natural look.

5. Once the sections are installed and dry, remove hand stains by wiping the wallpaper with a damp cloth, followed by a dry cloth.

Additional free ideas are offered by senior staff writer and home decor specialist Alyssa Davis at Metal-Wall-Art. The store also specializes in distinctive fleur de lis wall art and wall sculptures.

Installing a septic system requires putting in a septic drain field. A drain field is the part of a septic system where the wastewater is dispersed into the soil for absorption and filtration. Installing a drain field may seem difficult for the novice; however, when you have the knowledge and tools to do the job correctly, it is actually a fairly easy task.

The following is a general guide on how to install a drain field:

1. The process for installing a drain field will vary from region to region, so the first thing you need to do is learn about the applicable building codes and obtain a permit. As well, you will also have to learn about the necessary inspections. You should also talk to the zoning department in your area. You will have to present your plans to the proper local government department to get your permit.

2. The location you choose to install the drain field will require a percolation test. A percolation test measures the ability of water to soak into the ground. This test will tell you how porous the soil is and the length of the field lines that will need to be installed. The size of the tank you acquire will depend on the number of bedrooms in the home. The results of the percolation test will allow the inspector to determine the type of materials you need for the drain field such as sand, gravel, fill dirt, and topsoil.

3. You will have to measure for the installation of the drain field lines. Some people will use a surveyor to measure and record the dimensions.

4. Once you have the correct measurements, dig the trenches for the field lines. The depth of the field lines will be determined by the depth of the outlets from the septic tank. When digging field lines, make sure there is a slight slope so that there will be proper drainage.

5. Lay the drain pipes in the field line trenches and attach them to the outlets from the septic tank. Once this is done, fill the septic tank with water.

6. Fill in the field lines with the percolation test determined materials such as gravel, sand, dirt…etc. Once you have it filled in properly, you will likely have to get another final inspection. After you pass the inspection, you can lay sod or plant grass. Remember, when you are covering the drain fields, there should be a slight mound to prevent water from draining on the property.

For every home that is built, a septic system is mandatory in order to have running water. The septic system includes installing a drain field. It is not that difficult to install a drain field. It is just a matter of having a plan and understanding what inspections and permits are required. If you are not comfortable with installing the drain field yourself, there are professionals with the knowledge and experience who can do the job properly and meet all of the local government codes.

Searching online for a plumber to fix your drains and plumbing Squamish problems? Then be sure to contact Mr.Rooter, offering full services 24 hours a day! From drains Toronto to plumbing Tri-Cities problems, Mr.Rooter has you covered coast to coast!

Mold is a living organism. It is a type of fungus that lives off organic matter. While mold exists in the air and in most of our environments, we only become aware of mold when it forms a colony inside our home. Molds thrive in moist, warm environments, but can also survive in very cold temperatures.

A colony of mold can be seen most often on walls or ceilings in bathrooms, attics, or crawl spaces. When we find mold living in our walls we are presented with a very unhappy situation: we must tear that wall down. Once mold infests itself in any item, that item must be eliminated.

After you recognize the presence of mold in your wall, these are helpful steps to take.

1) Carefully inspect all items in the room for further mold. If any items seem to have been damaged by mold and are negligible, remove them immediately from your home.

If there are remaining important items, you have two options: one, wash them down with a solution of both detergent and 1-to-6 parts bleach-to-water or two, wash them in a washing machine with a trusted detergent. If you cannot eliminate mold by either of these methods, you must discard these things. If you do not dispose of these mold-ridden effects, they will contaminate other items.

2) Remove the rest of your furniture from the room to prevent spores from becoming imbedded in your sofas, futons, etc. If you open the wall and mold becomes airborne, you run the risk of getting mold everywhere.

3) Before cutting a hole in your wall to remove the dry wall surrounding the mold, turn off the electricity to that area of your house. You do not want to risk electrocution. After eliminating the area of the wall with mold, check beyond the infected area. Often you will find more mold that has not become outwardly apparent. Remove as much dry wall as there is mold. If you find that you have an area larger than one wall of a room, you should probably contact an Environmental Cleanup Specialist.

4) After all of the infected dry wall is removed, you must wash down that surface with a bleach solution. While it is recommended you use a 1-to-6 parts bleach-to-water, you could decrease the dilution (i.e. more bleach) and wipe down the beams at least twice. You must to eliminate all mold. If any spores survive, they will be able to reproduce and cause just as much damage again.

5) Given that you have cleaned the surrounding surfaces twice, leave out a dehumidifier and fan running for at least one full day (24 hours) before attempting to install new dry wall.

For clarification it must be mentioned that bleach is not the best solution for removing mold. Bleach will completely kill mold growing on non-porous surfaces like glass, tiles, bathtubs and counter tops. Bleach, however, cannot completely kill mold growing in non-porous materials such as drywall and wood. It does not penetrate into these non-porous substances so only the mold growing above the surface is killed by the bleach. For this reason it is necessary to remove any affected drywall and utilize other techniques on affected wood surfaces.

http://www.rightwayrestoration.com

Vic Roberts is Vice President and Co-Owner of Right Way Restoration. Right Way is an IICRC restoration company based in Atlanta, Ga. but provides services nationwide throughout the continental United States. Right Way specializes in water restoration, mold remediation, fire and smoke restoration, sewage cleanup, trauma and crime scene cleanup, odor restoration, disaster relief, flood damage cleanup, storm damage cleanup, and emergency response.

http://www.rightwayrestoration.com

You should be able after reading this, to perform simple forming methods for linear footings and pier footings for a basic foundation. I will cover optional ways to form foundation walls as well. Along the way I will leave you hints that will either be ways to save money, safety items or perhaps a reference or two for you to go to for more information if you need it.

Linear Footing Formwork- Linear footings is a fancy word for strip footings that you may have seen being placed under a new house or garage. They are the first basic piece in the foundation system you will need for your project. Linear footings may form a square, a circle, an arc or perhaps just a projection sticking out from the main building that will support a knee wall or a retaining wall.

Observe therewill be several men involved as well as the use of wheelbarrows to haul the concrete and place it in the footing forms. Also note the small squares in the center of the excavation are for a pier footing that may support a column later on. The concrete is placed and leveled off flush with top of forms.

Materials: Materials for footings can range from dimensional lumber such as a 2″ x 12″ or 2′ x10″ to plywood, scrap lumber pieces, or any other wood you have laying around. Typically, footing lumber can be used over and over again to save money. 12 penny,10 penny and 8 penny common nails, some string line, pencils, level, ruler or measuring tape and a tripod and bubble level. A tripod and level can be rented by the day from most Rental centers. They will show you how to set it up and use it if you need help. A string line bubble level is approximately $2.00 at most home hardware stores.

Tools-Long handled pointed shovels, short handled square shovel, hammers, pick, 12 pound sledge hammer, tie wire, and a chalk line box.

Reinforcement- In most parts of the country steel reinforcement is required in foundation footings. It could be 2-#5 bars continuous or 2-#6’s and this information will be shown on your building drawings. Reinforcement bar sizes are based on 1/8″ increments of 1″. So #5vbar is 5/8″ thick, #6 bar is 6/8 or ¾” thick and so on. Bars range from #3 to ##24 but will never see anything larger than a #7 in any typical house footing. Rebar (for short) is available at home centers, lumberyards and if you have a local steel supplier in the phone book, they may deliver as well. Rebar comes in 20′ or 30′lengths with 20′ lengths which are easier to handle and are preferable. You can bend a #3, 4 or 5 in a simple jig made of stacked cement blocks or a trailer hitch on a pickup truck. It will take some effort but there aren’t that many to bend.

Cutting rebar may be done with a demolition saw or a skill saw with a carbide blade although that is much slower. WEAR SAFETY GLASSES AT ALL TIMES! Flying debris from the saw blade and sparks can cause serious eye injuries. Watch the sparks as well. Be aware of where you’re working and have a firm footing when doing this work. Make sure no one is standing in the path of the cutting debris or sparks.

Rebar installed in a pier footing. Many footings have 2 or 3 continuous bars tied together end to end for added strength of the footing. Walls may have just vertical bars or both vertical and horizontal bars in them.

Installation: Here’s the fun part where you actually see something getting done. Once you have performed the layout of the building lines, you are ready to start installing the formwork. Remember, this is not cabinet or finished work that will be seen later on. It is simply a temporary form to hold the concrete in shape until it dries. When your concrete is hardened, YOU RIP ALL THE FORMS BACK OUT! While we are here, when you have finished and poured your footings, remove ALL wood from around the work. Leaving wood in place and burying it will draw insects and especially termites. They just love damp wood. This will be a serious problem later on. Take your time to clean it all out. Start in one corner of your foundation (we will for now assume it is a rectangle) and start laying out the longest lengths of lumber you have to use. Your drawings will tell you if your footing is 20″ wide and 10″‘ deep or 24″ wide and 12″ deep and so on. The first number given such as 24″ x12″ typically means the width of the footing is 24″, and the depth is 12″. Typical means this is the size used everywhere unless the architect shows a different size in a specific place. If your footing is 24″ x 12″, you would be using 2″ x12″ x 12′ or 10′ dimensional lumber marked as SPF. (Spruce, Pine, Fir). In different areas of the country, faming lumber could be Southern Yellow Pine, white pine or other most common and cheapest wood available. Remember, this is not structural framing lumber so there is no reason to buy the highest priced wood for this work. Buy the Cheapest!

OK so you worked your way all around the building and find out the building doesn’t fit your lumber lengths. Amazing! Say the building is 42′ long. by lapping your forms one foot each, you will only get 39′ from 4 10′ pieces and you need 42′. Now you are allowed to cut some pieces to fit the corners. Try to keep the cutting to a minimum so you can save your lumber for another project. OK, now we have lumber laid out all the way around the foundation. Holding the lumber in place can be done by several methods and all are fine.

Formwork can be held in place by using wooden stakes, steel stakes, perforated strapping steel tape, or wood spreaders. Steel stakes are quicker but are expensive to buy. If you can rent a box of 24 or 48, do so as they greatly speed up the work. If you are using wood stakes you have to purchase some 1″ x 3″ x12′ lumber for cutting of stakes. If your ground is very soft or wet, the stakes may have to be 30″-36″ long, if the ground is firm 24″ long stakes will do. Cut a point on each stake and make a couple of dozen of them to start. Stand your first footing form directly under you layout line and drive a stake alongside on the outside! You have to be able to remove them later. Now keeping the form under your layout line, move along the board and place another stake at the other end keeping the entire length of the board under the string line. Make sure your form is in line with the foundation footing layout line. Place your second form alongside the first on the outside and lap it 1″ over the first. Drive a 16 penny duplex nail in the lap to hold it while you work along. Third form; place it to the inside of the 2nd board, lapping it one foot as well. Nail these together from the outside! Continue on around the footing until you have stood forms for the entire exterior of the footing including corners. Lapping in and out all the way around. Now start your inside form. Stand the board 24″ away from the outside form board and hold it in place with either a 28″ piece of the 1″ x3″ lumber scrap keeping a minimum of 24″ between the forms. The building inspector will check this dimension. He/she does not care if it’s slightly larger but he/she will fail it, if it’s less than 24″. Again work all the way around your footing until you have a full rectangle with a form board for both the inside and outside of your footing in place.

Now is the time to begin making your forms strong enough to hold the weight of the concrete. Starting in one corner, add enough wood stakes, nailing each one as you go to the formwork with 10 penny duplex nails. Steel stakes have pre-drilled holes in them so you simply insert the nail in a hole and drive it in. Continue this until one side is secured soundly. Now stand the inside forms making sure you maintain the minimum width required by your drawings. Install “spreaders” made of scrap lumber across the top of the forms to hold them apart and help hold them from tipping over when the concrete is placed inside. Continue on all the way around the footings until all forms are nailed and staked. NOTE: As you proceed with the formwork, using your level and tripod, make sure the forms are LEVEL! They are of no use if they weave up and down and will make installation of the foundation itself, nearly impossible. If you encounter rock or other obstruction, ask your building inspector how he/she wants to see the footing formed at that location. They may allow you to pin the rebar to the rock, ask that some of the rock be removed to provide a level surface and so on. Now install the rebar. Just slide the long lengths under your spreaders making bends at the corners. Using tie wire, hang the bars from the spreaders so the rebar is located within the bottom 1/3 of the footing height. 12″ high footing? Hang the bars 3-4″ above the ground. This will help provide the strongest footing you can make. When all rebar is complete, call for inspection and take a rest.

Placing the concrete-When pouring a large footing or foundation, you will most likely purchase the concrete from a Redi-mix concrete supplier. They will want to know, how many yards you need, what strength concrete and what time of day you would like it to be on site. Have your information ready. Order two days before you need it and check again on the day it is supposed to be delivered to make sure there will not be any delays. Weather, plant breakdowns and even manpower can sometimes delay truck delivery times. They will get there as closely to the hour you requested as possible. BE READY! When the truck shows up is not the time to find out you have a flat on the wheelbarrow or can’t find the shovels. Have your tools and manpower ready. Most companies allow up to 1 hour on site for unloading. After that you pay additional time charges for the truck and the driver. It can get costly! Unless you are superhuman and very well experienced do not try and unload 10yds of concrete with only 2 people. You most likely will spill more than you use, the concrete will get hard before you finish it and rushing around can cause an injury. Be prepared with sufficient manpower.

After the concrete is placed in your forms and roughly troweled off to the top of the forms, take a few minutes break. The concrete will start to setup and if your plans call for vertical bars in the footings for the new foundation walls, this is the time to install those. They should all be pre-made and laid out roughly where they are to go in the footings. Again, plan ahead. You may “stab” these rebar into the wet concrete, wiggling them around slightly to get the concrete to fill in around the hole you made. Your plans will tell you if the bars go on the inside or outside “face” pf the wall or in the center and how far apart they are to be. “Inside” and “Outside” face simply means the inside or outside of the new all. Most times the bars are to be placed 2″ away from the face. Your drawings will tell you this information. Starting in one corner, install one bar in intersection of the corner and then measure whatever dimension the drawing shows for centers. 32″ on center (O.C.). Just measure over 32″ and install the next bar and so on. When you come to the next corner, make sure one bar is at the corner intersection center again. You can add extra bars of you have a question, just don’t add too few.

Next day. Now that you found the muscles you never knew you had (just a little sore?) it is time to strip all the formwork off the footings. Yes all that great form work you did is now just scarp lumber pile material. Take ALL wood out of the foundation area. Rotting wood underground draws termites and other nasty insects! Footings are complete.

Foundation forms completed and filled with concrete. Not child’s play!

Foundation walls: Walls may be constructed of concrete block units (Masonry or CMU), poured concrete, pressure treated wood and today even Styrofoam foundation blocks are available. Whatever the type you are using, if you did a good job on your footings and they are nice and level, the walls are going to be easy to install. If your foundation is masonry, your work is done. Your mason will now layout the wall locations, lay the CMU, pour the CMU cells that have the rebar in them and install the straps for the sill plate for the house, shed, garage, etc. Make sure his contract includes all this work and materials. If the foundation is concrete, the concrete contractor will bring all the forms with him. Again, make sure all the formwork, wall ties, rebar required, windows and other accessories are included in his contract. It is possible for a homeowner to form and pour a foundation but it is not child’s play. For rentals, rebar installation for the walls, actual placement of the concrete, how to use the trucks properly and possibly the use of a concrete pump are all best left to the pros. Concrete is extremely heavy when wet. Improperly constructed wall forms can result in a “blow-out” of the formwork and serious injury or death can result.

Footings are the basic and first building block of your project. Sheds may sit only on 4 solid concrete blocks but those are the footings. They too must be solid and level to provide a good footing for your shed. Take your time and do it right and the rest of your building will be easier to keep plumb and level.

Hopefully this has given you lots of ideas and information on the right and wrong ways to install footings. Whether it is a large or small project, the theory is the same. Take your time to read your drawings, always use safety glasses when using a power tool or placing concrete.
Pete

Your Friendly Building Inspector

http://www.Wagsys.com

BICES-Building Inspection & Code Enforcement System Software

Pete is a 30+ year building inspector with experience in both public and private construction industries. From schools to treatment plants, from private homes and condo projects, to large residential landscaping projects, he has worked both in the building design areas and field construction in the Eastern US. In 2006 he formed along with two other building inspectors, Wagsys LLC which produced software for municipal agencies in the fields of building departments, planning boards and Zoning Boards of Appeals.

Does your room need a makeover? Are you planning to get rid of the existing wallpaper? If the existing wallpaper was chosen years ago and the style and pattern has become outdated, you might want to remove that wallpaper. Removing wallpaper can be messy at times, especially when it was not properly installed in the first place. Many a time, people don’t really follow the instructions on wallpaper installation, as a result, stripping wallpaper off the wall becomes a bothersome task. If the wallpaper was applied over a wallboard that wasn’t primed, removing wallpaper might surely become a frustrating task. If the wallpaper is badly stuck to the walls you might end up damaging the wall during wallpaper removal. If you are facing this problem, let me tell you a perfect solution. All you need to do is get hold of paint and brush and paint over the wallpaper. Wondering how to paint over wallpaper? Here’s some information that might help you in this home improvement project.

Is Painting over Wallpaper Feasible

Before I tell you how to paint over wallpaper, there are a few things that you need to know. You first need to look at the wallpaper closely. Before you start painting over wallpaper, make sure that the wallpaper is properly stuck to the wallboard. It should be smooth, if wallpaper has come loose at some spots, and air pockets have developed at these places, it would not be a good idea to paint over wallpaper. If you apply paint over such a wallpaper, the presence of air pockets would become even more pronounced. Application of paint over textured wallpaper might also be a little difficult. The texture of the wallpaper might be noticeable even after painting over wallpaper. You might have to add texture to the wall to conceal the textured wallpaper. If the wallpaper is not torn at many places and there are no air pockets, you can go ahead with the task of painting over wallpaper. Here are instructions on how to paint over wallpaper.

Painting Over Wallpaper

If stripping wallpaper from drywall is likely to cause damage to the wall, it would be a good idea to apply paint over wallpaper. Wondering how to paint over wallpaper? Here’s all you need to know for this interior decorating project.

• Cover the floor with newspaper or old towels. Start by cleaning the wallpaper with a sponge. If the wall covering is made from vinyl, you will need to sand it lightly. If there are any air pockets, try to flatten them. Remove all the nails. Cover the seams or holes with caulking or an all-purpose drywall mud. If there are any loose or curled up seams, you will need to paste them with the help of seam paste. You must never paint over wallpaper glue or paste.

• The next step is to apply a primer over the wallpaper. If you apply paint directly over the wallpaper, it might end up looking sloppy and the paint will not really adhere to the wallpaper. Those of you who wish to learn how to apply paint over wallpaper must understand the importance of this step. Another thing that you must do is to get hold of an oil based primer. Using a latex or water-based primer will not work well. It will cause the adhesive between the wall and wall covering to soften. So, make sure that you use an oil based primer on the wallpaper.

• The primer must always be lighter than the color of the paint. Add a little paint thinner to it and mix well to get the right consistency. Apply 2-3 coats of primer over the wallpaper using a low-nap roller. Now let the primer dry completely.

• The last step is to apply paint over the wallpaper. The color of the paint should be such that the wallpaper pattern or texture is disguised well. Make sure that you apply the paint over wallpaper border evenly. Use a smooth roller to paint over wallpaper backing. After you have applied one coat of paint over wallpaper seams and backing, let it dry. Apply as many coats till your get the desired look.

Now that you know how to paint over wallpaper, you can use this painting technique in order to disguise jaded or old-fashioned wallpaper. My advice to you is that these instructions for painting over wallpaper should be used only if the wallpaper is badly stuck to the wall. If the existing wallpaper can be easily removed, it would be better to remove it and replace it with a new one. Using a removable wallpaper will save you all the trouble. So, if you love using decorative wallpaper in your home, always buy one that can be easily removed.

Let’s face it — life is messy. No matter what your living situation — a house, condo, loft, etc. — you’re going to encounter some spills and stains along the way. If you’re an owner, you likely take pride in your living space and want to keep your investment in pristine condition. As a renter, respect for the owners as well as the threat of impending fees can be motivation enough to take care of the property you are renting.

As a property manager, maintenance and upkeep are particularly important because you will likely need to re-rent the property as leases expire and tenants move out. In this case especially, it is crucial to keep the house or apartment in its best possible condition. Whether you rent to families or individuals, some damage is inevitable and you’ll need to do some heavy-duty cleaning between tenants. Even if your renters are responsible, they might need your advice on cleaning certain stains. Here are some household remedies you can use to get rid of some common stains on walls and ceilings:

GREASE STAINS

The back-splash of stoves and counter tops are particularly vulnerable to grease stains, and failure to remove it properly can greatly decrease the kitchen’s aesthetic appeal. If you want to use a store-bought product, several cleaning brands offer degreasing chemicals that promise to completely remove grease stains. If you want to steer clear of harsh chemicals, “green” or environmental-friendly products are growing increasingly popular. At-home remedies include diluted vinegar or diluted bleach solutions. An unexpected but reputable method is to take ash from the fireplace, make a paste using water, and apply it to the grease stains.

WATER STAINS

Usually the result of leaky pipes or appliances, water stains can leave unattractive marks on walls and ceilings. The key with water stains is less about removal and more about preventing future damage. If the walls are white, you can remove some of the stain with water and bleach. In most cases, your best bet is to repaint the area. However, the most important step is to apply a stain-blocking sealant or primer before applying the new coat of paint. The sealant will prevent the stain from seeping through the fresh paint and reappearing.

CRAYON MARKS

It might be a kid’s best artwork, but it probably doesn’t belong on the walls. Remedies for this one range far and wide, from shaving cream to mayonnaise and a multitude of products in between. You can use toothpaste, a highly popular choice, but be sure to use the paste and not the gel. Try and match the color of the toothpaste to the color of the wall, if you can, to prevent any possible discoloration. Because crayons are made of wax, you can use heat (via a blow dryer or iron on a low setting) to melt the crayon marks and then gently remove them with a mild dish soap.

Katie Hawkes is a freelance blogger for RPM East Valley, an AZ property management company specializing in all major Arizona cities.

The first time I ever fixed wall tiles, I made the mistake that comes naturally with youthful arrogance. I couldn’t be bothered to fix a batten to the wall because I would be so quick -1 would be finished and off to the pub early. I just marked the wall with a level, applied the adhesive and started fixing the tiles.

That would have been fine with a lot of experience and some of the adhesives that are available today, but this was, well, a good few years ago, and yes, before you ask, it was after the advent of horsehair and cow poo plaster. ! The tiles all started to move – they were so thick and heavy. Also, I wouldn’t pay for spacers – which was a BIG MISTAKE! It was a classic case of more haste less speed. As I did start half-cocked, the problems went from bad to worse, and after a good few hours battling with it, I had to make the embarrassing decision to strip all the work off, clean the tiles and walls which took another long time, and start again, using a batten and setting out properly. I made a ‘proper job’ of it in the end. But as for going out early with my friends, this became a ‘night out on the tiles’ with a different meaning! It taught me to spend an extra hour setting out and planning at the beginning, rather than four hours at the end trying to correct faults, which become compounded as you carry on. I still didn’t buy the spacers though, so I had to use something else! Read on.

Firstly, take a length of batten approximately 1900mm (6ft 3in) long. Carefully lay out some of your tiles with spacers, marking the batten to create a gauging rod. Offer the rod up to the wall to determine where to start and to keep the cuts at the top, bottom and both corners as equal as possible.

Once the position is established, fix a full horizontal batten above the skirting at that point, using a spirit level. Also fix a vertical batten near the corner. Drill and fix these battens with screws and plugs. With these in place you now have the guides to proceed.

Using a serrated trowel or spreader, apply the adhesive evenly over the wall, covering no more than approximately a square meter at a time. Wall tile adhesive usually comes pre-mixed in large tubs. Press the tiles firmly into the adhesive, remembering to insert the spacers. Once all the full tiles are fixed, remove the battens ready to prepare and place ‘the cuts’ all around the edges.

Cutting the tiles is best and fairly effortlessly carried out using a hand operated tile cutter. To mark a tile for cutting, hold it face down into the corner and mark with a felt tip pen, allowing for spacers. Cut the tile. Spread the adhesive on the back of the cut tile and place it carefully in position.

The grouting material is purchased in powder form, which must be made into a creamy paste by adding water.

The best method of application is to use a rubber-grouting float (a wooden handled float with a rubber face), which allows you to push the grout around into all the joints easily.

It is important to remove all the excess grout from the surface before it goes off. The most effective method is to use a bucket of clean water and a damp sponge. To finish off, polish the tiles with a dry cloth.

To add a little finesse to the job, rub the lines between the tiles over with a jointer to compress and finish the joints.

Shape a piece of wood or plastic to make a perfectly good tool. Finally, polish the tiles once more with a dry cloth to finish the job with style.

As with all things DIY, it helps if you can follow instructions like these ones that have been written for you by Steve Waller who writes more of his advice on Casa Rooms – your guide to home improvement, design and DIY.

As domestic plastering contractors we get asked this question over and over, along with a multitude of others mainly concerning asbestos. Here we will highlighting the most relevant points about artex, asbestos and what to do with it.

How to remove artex

Firstly, understanding what might be in your home and how to evaluate it is paramount. Artex is what we commonly call a textured finish on a ceiling and sometimes walls, but artex is in fact a trade name for one of the commonly used products in the 70s and 80s. Up until 1984 manufacturers of various textured coatings and paints used between 3 – 5% of Chrysolite white asbestos in their products. So any coated surface you believe to be pre-1984 could very possibly have asbestos content. Another date to remember, which is sometimes confused with the 1984 removal of asbestos from “artex” is 1999, which is the date white asbestos was finally banned in the UK.

Now you need to know what to do. There are various products on the market that can remove artex, they are chemically based and will turn the coating to mulch allowing you, (when wearing the correct safety equipment, goggles, gloves etc) to scrape off. A wallpaper steamer can also be used as it will dampen the coating and thus eliminating the harmful dust and also allow you to scrape off. If you believe any waste contains asbestos please contact your local council’s waste management and obtain the relevant disposal bags, or at least double bag using strong plastic bags and inform the staff of your local tidy tip/ waste management centre of the contents of your bags.

Other alternatives are to get the contents of your textured coating professionally tested and removed, by a licensed contractor. This method is usually unnecessary and can prove very costly, with tests alone ranging from £30 to the £100’s. The least disruptive and often best method of how to remove artex, is to actually leave it in place and use the services of a plasterer to either plasterboard over the “artex”, then re plaster, or re plaster over artex directly thus encasing the artex.

Finally, don’t allow the problem of how to remove artex bog you down, the methods are there and if you have genuine fears please get professionals advice. Also a worthy note, it has long been recorded that the main dangers of asbestos related illnesses are from prolonged exposure to asbestos. We are not belittling asbestos exposure, only putting into context the dangers for anybody who has had limited exposure as a result of removing artex.

Cooler temperatures put our bodies on notice that we need to keep warm. While a sweater may be all we wear to stay comfortable in the fall, a goose down coat may be the prescription for the winter. It is the insulating value of the goose down that keeps us snug. Insulation in a home serves a very similar function in maintaining warmth. Our comfort and expense is significantly affected by the type and amount of insulation we choose, as well as its installation locations and processes.

Insulation’s function is to create resistance to heat transfer. In the summer, heat wants to enter your home; in the winter, heat wants to escape. It is the job of insulation to slow that exchange of temperature. That resistance is measured in R-value.

Surrounding the conditioned space on all sides with insulation is how we most effectively keep our homes comfortable. The unique aspects of its different locations are worth examining in detail.

First-level floor

Most homes insulate the first story with material placed on the bottom side of the floor. Building code requires a minimum R-19, and this is most often accomplished with the placement of batts (rolled out lengths of fiberglass insulation) placed between the floor joists.

For older homes that lack any floor insulation, having this installed will greatly increase comfort as well as reduce energy consumption. I typically see homes that contain floor insulation in disrepair. Re-insulating areas where batts have fallen down or have been removed because of re-wiring, re-plumbing or a lack of support rods to hold them in place is a good idea. Keep in mind that the material should have contact with the bottom of the flooring but should not be compressed, as this will make it less effective. “Sealing” or “closing” a crawlspace is also an excellent way to insulate. The process yields exceptional results by improving moisture control and air quality and saving energy.

Exterior walls

Being encapsulated on all sides makes this the least accessible place to inspect and repair insulation. Most homes built within the past 40 years have insulation in the exterior walls. Homes without this insulation have wall cavities with temperatures that can be very similar to the outside. There are effective methods to insulate these homes, most often by blowing insulation into the wall cavities. I recommend consulting a qualified professional about options and costs.

There are several effective choices when insulating walls in a new home. Traditional batts are a good choice when properly installed. Be aware that hand-cut batts can create undesirable gaps and that the material should always have full contact with the interior drywall.

There are many blown and sprayed wall insulation options, and their attributes, applications and costs vary. What they all have in common is that they minimize the human error attributed to installation and give an even, consistent application that conforms nicely to the wall cavities, eliminating gaps and voids.

Attic

Warm air rises. In the winter, your home’s conditioned air pushes against the ceiling, or the underside of the attic, and heat transfer can be significant there. A visual inspection of the attic insulation is worth the effort. Some issues can be detected easily. For instance, if you can see the tops of your ceiling joists, you probably have inadequate coverage.

As a rule of thumb, to achieve building code compliance of R-38, an attic should have approximately 15 inches of loose fill fiberglass or 11 inches of loose fill cellulose. Batts also are a common form of attic insulation. My experience has been that this application often contains numerous voids around electrical boxes and ducting, as well as beside each ceiling joist. Blown insulation can be applied to increase almost any attic’s existing insulation, regardless of what has been previously installed. A relatively new process of applying spray foam insulation in the rafter system has proven to be very effective. One of its benefits, as many homes have their duct system in the attic, is that by insulating the rafters, the ducts then become located inside the insulated envelope. This keeps the attic temperature milder and provides minimal heat transfer with the duct work.

A well-insulated home is a more comfortable and a more energy-efficient home. So button up that overcoat around your home with some insulation this winter, and have a warm and joyous holiday season.

Gary Silverstein, chairman of the Triad Green Building Council, is owner of Silverstein Construction Corp. and president of Energy Reduction Specialists of N.C. Inc.

Save Energy, Secure Comfort, Save Money

http://www.ERSofNC.com
http://www.SilversteinConstruction.com

The best method for removal of stubborn / broken bolts is to drill them out using a left hand drill bit and a reversible drill. Use a good quality, variable speed drill. The best would be the 3/8 INCH models, which produce good torque at low RPM. High impact drills may result in the opposite effect. Also make sure you use American drill bits here folks. As always with drilling holes, drill a small “pilot hole” or use a center punch first, then drill a larger hole through the broken fastener.

It’s easier to drill centered and straight by using a small drill first, but be careful not to break the small drill. A pilot hole or center punch can be skipped if you are using a drill bit with a high enough split point. The split point eliminates the need for a “pilot hole” or center punch. Anytime you drill metal you should use a little cutting oil if you want to keep your drill bits sharp. You also want to stop every 1/16 of an inch or 2mm to make sure you are drilling straight. A little penetrating oil may be helpful here as well. Most bolts will come out before the drilling operation is finished!

If you don’t get lucky enough to have the bolt come out when you drill with the left hand drill bit, don’t start kicking anything because great things come in small packages. I also don’t need you sending me a hospital bill for a broken foot. Next step would be to use your screw or bolt extractor which comes in a variety of sizes. Insert the tip of the bolt extractor into the hole and begin drilling in reverse or counter-clockwise. Make sure you are drilling into the center of the screw or bolt. This is very important. If you are not, just angle the drill in the direction you need in order for it to be on center. If you do everything correctly the extractor should automatically engage and begin to remove the bolt. It will be like magic before your eyes. If for some reason it stalls during removal, use some more penetration oil and let it sit for a minute. You can either try again or continue removing the bolt by hand.

Now if you’re STILL having trouble then you pretty much have the same luck as I do. First, I recommend never going to the casino. The only other option would be to use some kind of blow torch to heat up the bolt. This will make it much softer and may loosen it up. Obviously be careful and don’t do this if the bolt or screw is fastened to any flammable material. American Made Drill Bits has some great, inexpensive, left hand drill and bolt extractor sets. They are also 100% Union Made in the USA.