The only way that you’re going to keep your hot tub in a consistently pristine condition is to establish a regular cleaning routine; a routine that includes doing certain tasks occasionally and completing other tasks as often as a few times a week, during peak usage periods.

Correct chemical maintenance will ensure that your water is in pristine condition and ready for use whenever you are. The most frequently used of all hot tub chemicals is sanitizer, so checking its level regularly will be one of the tasks that you need to perform a few times a week while you’re hot tub is receiving regular use. A general rule of thumb is that if you use chlorine sanitizer it will require more frequent attention than if you use bromine in your water.

Another of your more frequently performed tasks that you should do a few times a week during peak usage is to check the pH level of the water. A proper pH level of 7.4 to 7.6 will keep you slightly alkaline or basic. Now what you don’t want is water that dips below pH 7.0, this is acidic and acidic water is more corrosive on hot tub components.

An oxidizing shock treatment is used to eliminate oils that make their way into the water by way of bodies, cosmetics, sunscreen and perhaps tanning lotion. Now this task is one that needs to be done about once a week but just like the rest it should be done on a regular basis, particularly during periods of high use.

Then if you live in an area that has hard water you should be aware that the calcium in the water can, over time, lead to unsightly deposits on your hot tub. Worse than this are the calcium deposits that you can’t see that will tend to build up in the plumbing and machinery, and over time work to inhibit functionality.

Use a descaling chemical periodically to remove the calcium that will have gathered up in the filtration system. Even so, be aware that the proper calcium level in hot tub water is between 100 and 200 mg per litre. If it gets any lower than this the water can become corrosive and damage the water heater.

A hot tub filter should be cleaned about once a month and even more frequently during peak use periods. Also make a point of checking the filter as you clean it for any damages that may affect its performance.

Another thing you may want to do is while you have the filter out take a sponge and reach down inside the filter compartment to wipe out as much of the crud that you’ll see accumulating along the walls inside of it.

So there’s a lot of cleaning to do if you expect to have your hot tub in a continuous pristine condition and this is why it’s recommended that you keep a written schedule to make sure that everything gets done accordingly.

Lastly investing in a good quality hot tub cover can go a long way towards keeping your water free of bugs; debris and whatever else can land or get blown into it.

The plumbing system is a vital part of the home which requires care to keep it functioning properly. The hot water heater is one important plumbing fixture that requires maintenance in order to keep it running efficiently. Overtime, sediment and sludge can accumulate in a hot water tank which will make the heater less efficient and it will also shorten its life span which can be very expensive to replace. As well, the accumulation of sediment at the bottom of the water tank can solidify and clog the drain valve. To avoid sediment accumulation, it is important to drain the hot water heater to get rid of the debris and sludge.

The following is a guide on how to drain a hot water heater:

1. The first thing you should do is shut off the power to the water tank. For a gas hot water heater, turn the thermostat to the ‘pilot’ setting. For an electric water heater, turn off the breaker at the main electric panel.

2. Next, turn off the main water source. There will be either a lever or knob on one of the water pipes coming out of the wall to the water heater. Turn it until the lever can no longer turn.

3. The next thing to do is locate the draincock. The draincock can normally be found at the bottom of the tank on the side. It looks like an outdoor tap. Get a garden hose and attach one end to the draincock and extend the other end outdoors so the water will drain outside and not on the floor.

4. Slowly turn the draincock to open and allow the water to flow through the hose and outside. Open the hot water faucet of the bathtub and let it run. Allow the water to run until you no longer see any sludge and debris coming out with the water. The water should be clear, not yellowish brown.

5. Close the drain valve and turn off the hot water faucet.

6. Turn the cold water supply back on and allow the tank to fill. Turn the power supply back on after the tank has filled with cold water.

Water heater experts recommend that homeowners flush the sediment from their hot water tanks once or twice a year, depending on the quality of water in their area. If you live in an area with high mineral content in the water, draining twice a year may be necessary.

Generally, most homeowners do not think about maintaining their hot water heater until it breaks down and they end up with an expensive repair bill or replacement tank bill. Because the hot water tank is an essential plumbing fixture, it is essential to make sure the unit is properly maintained. It is important to flush the water tank to help extend the life span of the water tank. There are professional plumbing services that have the experience and expertise to properly drain a hot water tank and check the tank for any potential problems.

Looking for a local plumber to fix your plumbing problems? Contact the plumbing experts at Mr.Rooter, offering plumbing Oshawa and plumbing Peterborough services as well as plumbing services all across Canada. Visit mrrooter.ca

We have to face the truth that a clogged drain is an inevitable part of our household lives. Once we find ourselves in such situation, there will come to a point wherein we would decide to give up and simply call on a plumber, thereby forcing you to spend large amounts of cash just to get your drainage system working in no time. What most of us are not aware of, however, is that the most effective (and perhaps the cheapest) way of solving our drainage problems can be found right inside our house.

Here are some home remedies you can try in order to clear a clogged drain.

1. Hot water – This will be your most trusted friend when it comes to cleaning whatever blockage exists in your drainage system. How water will not only solve the problem, it can also prevent future ones. It has the ability to melt and dissolve any small particles that block the drains. To use hot water, simply pour it inside the holes of the sink, the basins, and even tubs.

2. Hot water with salt – Adding salt to your water will strengthen the liquid’s dissolving capacity. As much as possible, always come prepared with a spoonful of salt when it comes to solving drain problems.

3. Plunger – This is one of the most trusted tools when it comes to household problems such as this one. The plunger can solve not only toilet problems, but sink ones as well. To effectively use this, simply fill the drain with water until the plunger’s cup is immersed fully. Afterwards, simply pump with an up-and-down motion, creating a sort of suctioning effect that will push the blockage downwards into the pipes.

4. Vinegar and baking soda – To do this you will need to pour half a cup of baking soda down the clogged drain. Next, take half a cup of white vinegar and pour it into the drainage as well. Get a plate or a glass and cover the hole. Doing so will trap the baking soda solution. Leave it overnight. The next day, remove the plate or the glass and pour some hot water inside the drain, dissolving the solution and fixing the problem of the blockage.

5. Salt and baking soda – Another effective mixture that you can try out. Mix salt and baking soda in equal parts and pour the solution into the drainage. You must then pour some boiling water and leave it overnight. The next day, dissolve the solution with another amount of hot water.

6. Dishwashing liquid – Soap is also an ideal solution that can remove any unwanted blockages due to its slippery texture. Dishwashing liquid is perhaps the most ideal type of soap that can solve the problem of a clogged drain. You must first put one pound of washing liquid into three gallons of hot water. Next, pour the solution into the drain and wait overnight for the effects. The next day, do the same process as stated above by dissolving the solution with hot water.

Are you looking for more information regarding clogged drain? Visit www.magicplumbing.com/ today!

One issue that must be taken into consideration when undertaking a construction project is the long term settlement and stiffness of the ground such as the soil, clay, or soft silt. The solution to ensuring much quicker soil consolidation and settlement has been the development of Wick Drains. Wick drains are used when there is a problem with soil consolidation.

Also known as Prefabricated Vertical Drains (PV Drains), wick drains are flat, plastic fabric coated channels surrounded by a thin geo-textile filter jacket that functions as a free-draining water channel. The fabric acts as a filter because it maintains permeability while preserving the fine soil particles.

Wick drains reduce the distance water travels to a drainage path thereby reducing the time of settlement. Basically, they act as a free-draining water channel. Wick drains are suitable for peat, silts, clay, silt sands, and sludge waste from industry. Both the core and geotextile filter jacket of wicker drains makes them extremely durable and resistant to chemicals and many micro-organisms such as bacteria.

Wick Drains are a cost efficient method of hastening the consolidation process of fine grained soils in order to cut down on the time for starting construction. It allows for the drastic reduction time for long term settlement to occur. The use of wick drains helps to remove excess water, consolidate the compressible soil, and promote soil settlement. This allows a construction project to start in a few months instead of 12 months or more.

Special equipment called ‘Stitchers’ are used to install wick drains. The ‘Stitchers’ are mounted on a crane containing an installation mandrel that holds the wick drain. The mandrel along with the wick drain is driven hydraulically or vibrated into the ground allowing the penetration of rocky soil. When the mandrel is withdrawn, the wick drain remains in the ground. Depending upon the soil conditions, the speed of installation can be up to 2,000 feet per hour. As the soil consolidates, it increases in strength because there is a large reduction in water.

Wick drain projects have included: sedimentation ponds, buildings, airport runways, highway embankments, dams, golf courses, large storage areas…etc. The installation of wick drains is essential in areas that contain high fills that have to be positioned over low strength soft soils. The rate of soil consolidation and settlement depends on how quickly the water leaves the soil through the wick drain process. This is largely determined by the size of the spacing between the wick drains as well as the permeability of the water.

The particular design curves of the drain spacing chosen, the fill height, and consolidation time, all allow construction to begin much sooner. The costs of installing a wick drains depends on a number of factors that include: soil conditions, difficulty of pre-drilling, type of drain used, size of the project…etc. There are professional companies that specialize in installing wick drains. Today, the installation of wick drains has become an invaluable component of a construction project that requires a faster rate of soil consolidation and settlement.

Searching online for a local plumber? Be sure to contact the plumbing professionals at Mr.Rooter, offering services 24 hours a day! From plumbing Oshawa to plumbing Peterborough problems, Mr.Rooter has you covered coast to coast!

Unlike electric heating systems, radiator heating systems can sometimes stop working because of air trapped within the system. If the top of a radiator feels cold and the bottom feels warm, then it’s quite likely trapped air is forming bubbles within the piping that stops the flow of warm water from bottom to top. The time has come to bleed your radiators. In essence, bleeding a radiator means opening a valve to let the trapped air escape.

Look at your radiators and locate all the bleed valves. You can identify a bleed valve on a radiator as a small protrusion within a small cylinder. A bleed valve may be anywhere on the radiator, at an end, on the top or on the back. Also, a radiator may have more than one bleed valve.

You will need a radiator bleed key, a small key usually made of brass with a cross-piece at one end and a hollow at the other end that fits on top of the bleed valve — if one can’t be found, a standard replacement bleed key can be bought at a local DIY shop.

You’ll need a few more items before you start: o Small bowl to catch any water that leaks out while bleeding the valve o Cloth to protect your hand and to sop up water

Follow these steps to bleed a radiator:

1. Before you start bleeding your radiator, go to the main controls and turn off the central heating. You do not want more water or more air to be brought into the system while you have the bleed valves open.

2. Place the small bowl under the bleed valve to catch any dripping water.

3. Wrap the cloth around your hand to protect it against steam and hot water escaping the radiator via the bleed valve.

4. Slide the bleed key down onto the bleed valve until it fits firmly over the protrusion.

5. Turn the bleed key slowly at least a quarter-turn counter-clockwise. Air will begin to hiss out of the valve. When water starts to drip out of the valve, close the valve by turning the key clockwise.

6. Tighten the bleed valve with the key to make sure it’s fully closed.

7. Repeat Steps #2-6 for all the bleed valves on the radiator on which you’ve started and then move on to the rest of the radiators in the house that are exhibiting the same symptoms.

8. If you have a combi boiler, check the pressure gauge when you are all done bleeding the radiators to see if the boiler has sufficient pressure — the dial on the pressure gauge will have a line indicating the minimum pressure needed. If the pressure is too low, open the valve slowly on the filling loop to bring more water into the system — close this valve when the dial indicates the pressure is at the correct level.

9. Switch on the central heating. Within a few hours, all the radiators should be uniformly warm all over. Check all the bleed valves for any dripping water and tighten them if necessary.

Remember that a radiator system requires maintenance such as this fairly often and electric heating systems do not.

Have a look at the electric heating systems offered by Economy Radiators

Installing drainage piping requires some small degree of knowledge about how to determine slopes and grades. Drainage piping in order to function, must run or slope downhill to allow water to flow. If you are able to use a builders level it will make your installation that much easier. You must first determine the size of the pipe you are going to need to carry the amount of water in a storm and then add approximately 50% more capacity for 100 year storms. If you can get by with a four inch pipe, use a six inch pipe to assure the pipe is capable of carrying just about any amount it needs to handle. We will use a six inch diameter pipe for this discussion. If you are starting your pipe at a catch basin or other collection point, you will need to determine the height of the outlet of the basin relative to the height of the point where you want the pipe to exit or end. Using a builder’s level, it is done in this manner. Set up the level and tripod in a position where you can see both the starting point and the opposite end of the pipe.

You want to pick something in the work area that cannot move and set this as your bench mark height. A very large rock with a place you can mark and return to over and over to measure. A side lug on a fire hydrant works as well. Do the use the top nut as these move when the hydrant is opened. Once the level is itself leveled, your helper will place a rod or tape measure on the rock measuring from the rock upwards. Looking through the builders level, you can see where the cross hairs in the level hit the tape measure. Lets say the forty inch mark. Write down the number 40 and that is called the HI or instrument height. Now using the tape measure again, measure from the bottom of the hole in the basin, read the tape again and get a measurement. Lets say this time it is fifty inches. Write that down as well and this is called your front sight. Deduct the HI from the front sight and you will get 10 inches of course. Now using the tape, take another reading or sight at the exit point of the pipe albeit a free air point or a hole in another basin. This measurement is sixty inches. Deduct this measurement from the HI and you get twenty inches. That means there is a ten inch difference in height between the two basin openings.

You must now measure the distance between the two basins or a basin and the outlet point. In this example we will use eighty feet. At one eighth inch per foot of slope over eighty feet you would need one inch of slope for every eight feet. Eight divided into eighty is ten so your ten inches of overall height difference works fine. Now we know we will have to maintain a one inch drop ( or rise) in the pipe elevation every eight feet. Most operators prefer to dig uphill if possible so you will more than likely be deducting an inch from each level shot you take. As your operator digs, every eight feet you will need to take a new shot to assure that he is sloping the trench bottom uphill one inch every eight feet. You know your shot at the lower basin or exit point was sixty inches on the tape. Eight feet away from that basin it should read fifty-nine inches. That means the pipe rose one inch. Continue this method until you reach the upper basin or starting point. If you read your measurements correctly, when you get to the upper basin, you will have used ten inches of slope to get to the upper hole.

Most installations call for some type of stone under and over the pipe. If you are using a perforated pipe, this stone is critical along with filter fabric to assure the holes do not clog with silt and to prevent rocks from crushing or piercing the pipe during back fill operations. Other piping requires this stone to provide a solid foundation against pipe settlement. Once the piping is solidly set in stone, you may back fill the balance of the trench making sure no large rocks are placed over the pipe. Large rocks will over time settle down in the soft earth and can eventually crush the pipe. Remember to add the thickness of the bottom stone to your shot measurements.

In areas where car traffic may cross the pipe trench and depending on how deep the pipe is below the ground, additional protection such as steel plates or concrete may be required to prevent crushing of the pipe.

Pete Ackerson

Pete Ackerson is a 30+ year building inspector with experience in both public and private construction industries. From schools to treatment plants, from private homes and condo projects, to large residential landscaping projects, he has worked both in the building design areas and field construction in the Eastern US. In 2006 he formed along with two other building inspectors, Wagsys LLC which produced software for municipal agencies in the fields of building departments, planning boards and Zoning Boards of Appeals.

When cleaning up after a flooded toilet, it is very important to follow these instructions to avoid performing the same task more than once. Before beginning, ensure that you are wearing protective shoes, and your feet are enclosed. Wear utility gloves on both hands and a disposable apron is recommended. It is important to recognize that the contents in toilets are considered biohazardous. The overflow may contain dangerous substances that can cause contamination. If you follow these steps, you will save time, and minimize the spread of germs and contaminants:

- Ensure that the water supply has been turned off.

- Obtain a plastic bag and place it inside of the trash receptacle where the debris will be placed.

- If there are items visible in the toilet that are not biodegradeable remove the items to prevent further clogs.

- Place all items as mentioned in the previous step into the receptacle.

- After the toilet bowl is cleared of any non flushable items, turn the water supply to the on position.

- Flush the toilet to ensure there will not be any more overflowing.

- When the toilet is flushed and the toilet bowl refills with water at a normal level, repeat this step.

- Next the toilet should be cleaned with a toilet brush and disenfecting agent.

- Take care to use only one cleaning agent at a time to avoid any irritation.

- When possible use a regular mop and bucket.

- Place the cleaning agent in the bucket.

- It is safe in most instances to use one part cleaning agent and 3 parts fresh water in the bucket.

- Begin to mop the overflow from the floor.

- When the mop becomes saturated place it in the fresh water.

- Rinse the mop and continue to soak up all free-standing water and debris.

- Place the mop head in the trash receptacle, if disposable.

- Place the mop head in the proper container if it is reusable.

- Secure the plastic bag that contains the debris.

- Take the bag to be disposed to the outside trash receptacle.

- Take off shoes and clean them outside the home, if possible.

- Dispose of the apron and the gloves.

If these steps are followed, the job will be done efficiently and safely. This will prevent possible spread of germs and contamination and will lead to a healthier home.

Right Way Restoration
Vic Roberts
http://www.rightwayrestoration.com

Have you ever wanted to find a simple piece of furniture to fit neatly into a particular empty space, but couldn’t find a suitable item? The pieces in stores were either too wide, too narrow, too tall or just not the right thing. The solution might be to simply make the item yourself, even if you have little woodworking experience. These five steps can serve as a guide.

For a simple woodworking project, I’ll use as an example, building an ordinary book shelve unit. It doesn’t take a lot of skill, but the more effort you put into it the better the project will turn out and therefore the greater the satisfaction. Other items could be built using similar effort and steps. You want to save money by doing the job yourself with quality materials but with as few tools as possible. Besides, this particular job could be built in your room with little mess or dust.

Step 1; Make a rough drawing or sketch.

The first step should be to make a rough sketch of the wood project followed by a number of more detailed drawings showing actual dimensions and several views using a scale of, for instance, one inch equals one foot. You have probably seen a number of these shelve units in stores and therefore have a pretty good idea what the project should look like. Keep modifying or adding to your plans as you get new ideas.

Step 2; Search the net for ideas, information and plans.

The next step could be to search the net for woodworking plans. Today’s net is loaded with all kinds of wood projects along with detailed plans and information on how to build them. You may not find a plan that has the exact measurements you want, but close to it, and be careful because some plans may not be very accurate or even misleading and hard to follow. There are however, some excellent woodworking project packages available on the net that could be of help in the planning stage. The more time you spend searching and reading, the more you will learn and the more confidence you develop to get on with the job.

Step 3; Get more details by browsing through building supply stores.

A third step would be to browse around in large building supply stores such as Home Depot, Lowes or similar ones to see what materials are available. Make sure you have a tape measure with you to check the length or width of some of the finished shelves that could be used. They usually have a good variety in stock. If none of them are really suitable, then look at the assortment of four by eight sheets. They usually come in several kinds wood such as plywood or pressed wood with a variety of wood grain finishes or colors and in a variety of thicknesses. These could be cut up to make the shelves and side pieces. A thinner sheet of the same pattern could be cut up to fit as a back piece.

Step 4; Iron out all the problems.

Now you can see a problem? You may not want to purchase a table saw to cut up the sheets at this point in time and besides, you might be scared to use one. Most of the large stores do custom cutting or sawing for a small charge. Now its time to go back to your drawings. Take a sheet of paper and make a scale drawing of a 4×8 sheet and mark in the lines of the exact measurements of the shelves to be cut. Remember, the width of the saw blade is about one eighth of an inch and should be considered when cuts are made. Mark the cutting lines so there will be the least waste of material. This project may require more than one sheet and if only a little more is required, they do stock some smaller sizes of the same material such as 4×4 and 4×2. If you are using a woodgrain pattern, make sure that the grain goes lengthwise on the pieces to be cut.

Another problem will be how to finish the rough edges of the shelves and sides that will show at the front of the project. The stores usually have a large variety of all kinds of matching strips that can be glued on and the store personnel would be happy to help you select them and show you how to apply them.

Step 5; Purchase materials only after all details are in place.

Don’t hesitate to make several trips to the store and don’t purchase any materials, special tools or begin the project until you have every last detail of the plans figured out. This would include locating the wood for the shelves and sides, the fasteners or screws to put it together and the paint or stains to cover the wood.

By following these steps, a beginner should be able to do this woodworking project with only a few tools, with little mess or dust and with a good degree of confidence. After doing a good job with a simple project, you should handle much more advanced ones. There can be great deal of satisfaction and enjoyment in a job well done.

Angus Martin is an ordinary DIY’er who has done numerous woodworking jobs inside his house and yard. He got a great deal of advice from the professionals at the building supply stores and more recently from the internet. Visit http://tedswoodworkingideas.com! for more information on all kinds of wood projects!

Crown moldings provide a real sense of design, value, and elegance to the inside of any home. For this reason, many homeowners have decided they would like to have this feature in their home, but aren’t quite sure about how to install crown molding. Not to worry, because in this article you will discover a step by step process in which to install crown molding, as well as some of the different materials available that can make this task a little bit easier. If you plan to install crown moldings in your home, there are a few items you will need before getting started.

* Tools Needed:

Safety comes first, so you will always want to start with safety glasses. It will be extremely important to have a clean and well lit work environment as well. The main tools that’ll be needed will be a miter saw or box, nail gun, or a coping saw, hammer, and a box of 2″ finish nails. You will also need a construction pencil, speed square, framing square, tape measure, wood putty, sand paper, paint, and a level.

* Materials:

Crown molding will come in a variety of different sizes as well as different types of material. The sizes will vary between 2″ and 6″ inches. These moldings can be found plain or very ornamental. You will also have a choice as to the type of material you will use such as MDF (Medium Density Fiberboard) or polyurethane. You will find that MDF is a lot less expensive, but it is also not as durable as polyurethane. The materials you choose will be entirely up to you and your specific situation.

How to Install Crown Molding

* Step 1:

Once you’ve decided on the materials you would like, it will be very important to measure the home in order to get the right amount of material for the job. Measuring for crown molding is very simple because it’s simply a matter of length and width. Now, you always want to purchase a little more than your measurements require because this will accommodate the end cuts and mistakes that might require additional material. Once you’ve made the proper measurements and have received all the materials required for the project, it’s time to move on to the next step.

How to Install Crown Molding

* Step 2:

The corner pieces will more than likely be the biggest challenge when it comes to cutting and installing crown molding, so it will be important to start with corners first. One note (if you prefer, there are premade blocks that can be used for corners) this is in case you do not want to spend time measuring and cutting corners. With that said, you will begin to measure the lengths of materials you will need starting with one area at a time. DO NOT cut all your material at once, because along the way you may need to make changes.

How to Install Crown Molding

* Step 3:

Depending on the shape of the room, you may need to cut certain pieces at all different sizes. This will be due to rooms that have different or complicated sizes and shapes. Once you have the sections cut correctly, it’s time to install your crown molding using your nail gun or hammer. The finish nails will need to be at least 2 inches in length in order to bite into the beam or framing behind the wall. You will want to set your nails every 12 inches or so on the molding. Once you have installed one piece, using your measuring tools and level make sure it’s set perfectly and move on.

* Step 4:

Once the moldings have been set in place and that part of the work is finished, you will need to use your wood putty to fill the inset nail holes. Perform this process throughout your installation, and after the wood putty has been given time to dry, you can sand the wood putty areas briefly, clean all the areas really well, and then begin the painting process.

To be clear, learning how to install crown molding is not difficult and in fact can be quite easy once you get used to it. But if you feel that this might be a challenge, there are a lot of products available that make this process a little easier such as premade corners. This will decrease your time considerably because most of the measuring and cutting have been done for you. You will find that some of the premade corners are quite decorative and you may end up going in this direction as a result. Take your time when installing crown molding because the end result will add value, elegance, and a wonderful design to your home. I hope you have enjoyed this tutorial on How to Install Crown Molding.

Written by: Stacey Jaques / Owner of CS Handyman Jacksonville Orange Park

For more articles on home repair and handyman services please go to Home Improvement Orange Park

Sump pumps are your first line of defense to keep water out of your basement. They also protect your foundations and the structural integrity of your house.

You will need it most in early spring when there is a lot of snow melting or in the summer when there are some heavy rains. It is going to be called upon more so them, so you should check the operation before it is too late. By the time you look to call on the pump it might not have run for some time. So you need to plan ahead and ensure your pump will run when needed and not have you arriving home to a flooded basement.

Sump pump maintenance will take no more than around 10 minutes to complete and you will need to check the operation of your sump pump and ensure it is there for you whenever you need it.

Tips for sump pump maintenance

Keep a cover over the sump basin.

• This will keep out animals and children as well as ensuring you do not have any debris falling into the basin.
• A cover will also reduce the smells and evaporation

Inspect for debris

Inspect the basin/sump for any debris and remove any you might find before operating the pump. We do not want this to get into the sump pump intakes or even block the pump. So,always ensure you remove the debris first before you test the pump.

Check pump screens/ Inlet screens

Check the inlet screens on your pump are free from debris and residue build up, as if they are blocked up this will reduce the operational efficiency of your sump pump.Therefore this will reduce the volume of water the pump removes which will be a lot less than it is designed to pump. If needed bring a hose and wash down the external of the sump pump as well as the basin to remove all debris that may affect the operation of the pump.

Electricity and safety

As there is electricity and water within the same installation you should ensure you are electrically protected using a ground fault indicator (GFI). This should keep you safe as it should trip the electricity if there is a fault. Check the operation of this if there is a test facility to do so.

Cable routing

Check for correct cable routing as well as the cable being in good condition. Make sure the cable is away from the water as much as possible. Also check the cable is secured and not loose and in a situation where it might fall into the sump. This could prove lethal and have happened in some rare circumstances. So check the cable is fixed and secure.

Check your discharge pipes

Always have a check valve fitted, this is to stop the pumped water within the discharge pumped line from returning into the sump and refilling the sump once pumped away. It only allows the water to move in one direction, which of course is out of your sump. If this is faulty you will see your sump re-filling and your pump will run more frequently.

Check the discharge line for leaks or damage. Make sure all is intact including the end of your pumping line. If you are able to visually see the pumped line ensure the end is free to allow the pumped water to properly run clear.

Water test your pump

Fill the sump with water very slowly and observe the operation of the sump pump. This way you can watch the operation of the float switch, ensure it rises with the water level and moves easily and freely.

Check the operation of the float switch

Once the float rises to the switch on point you want to observe the sump pump running. You should of course listen to the pump as well. What you are listening for in this case is the connection of the float switch and that the switch makes without any hesitation or resistance and runs the pump properly. As the float switch is considered one of the weak points of a sump pump you can observe this in this test and ensure your switch operates normally. If the switch is intermittent or not operating normally you may be able to replace the switch and not need to buy a replacement sump pump.

Listen to the pump

Now the pump is running you want to listen to the pump itself running. Make sure there are no squealing or grinding noises or even metal on metal. With the sump pump running there should be some minor vibrations, if there are excessive vibrations then you must investigate this. Excessive vibration or noises may indicate the bearings or internal workings of the pump may be wearing out. In cases like this it might be best to have a replacement sump pump near hand in case you have to replace a pump in a hurry.

Operate the pump several times

Operate the pump like this several times just to get the pump operating efficiently and also check that the sump pump also stops pumping whenever the water level is pumped down to a suitable level and the switch has returned to a resting position. In general what you are doing is checking complete cycles of the sump pump to check it is working as it should do when it might be needed.

Check Valve operation

Listen for the check valve click as well within this operation sequence; you want to hear the check valve operating as the pump stops pumping. The check valve should close with a click and stop the water from returning into the sump.

Points to consider for the maintenance of your sump pump and pump installation
• Keep a cover over the sump basin.
• Inspect for debris
• Check pump screens/ Inlet screens
• Electricity and safety
• Cable routing
• Check your discharge pipes
• Water test your pump
• Check the operation of the float switch
• Listen to the pump
• Operate the pump several times
• Check Valve operation
• Replace all covers and parts

Once you are happy with the operation of your sump pump and you have checked everything over you needs to ensure you replace all parts and covers into their correct location for the operation of the pump. You should also periodically check in on your sump pump just to ensure it will be there for you whenever needed.

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