If you need to finish a trim or furniture piece made of pine, and you’re trying to stain the wood dark, you might run into problems getting the rich, dark tone that you would like.

And even if you obtain the deep, dark stain color you wanted, why are your results looking so “blotchy?”

To stain pine wood dark, every time, follow these steps.

Start with sanding

First things first, with any staining task, give the wood a good sanding. You’re going to want to do this by hand. Pine wood is a softwood, and if you use a power sander, you’ll often wind up with some noticeable scratches once you apply stain to the wood. There’s no easy way out of this, a manual sanding job is required.

To ensure a dark finish, use a medium grit sanding sponge or the equivalent sandpaper, which is about 100-grit. The sanding sponge is best for trim molding that has curves and fine crevices. It’s the best option for conforming to the curves and getting into the nooks and crannies. If you’ve got a strictly flat surface, wrap a small square piece of sandpaper around a sanding block (a simple block of wood will do) and sand with the grain, but at a slight angle.

Why at a slight angle? Pine wood grain is characterized by the light, softer “earlywood” and darker, harder “latewood.” By not cutting across the grain just a little, you are going to sand down more earlywood than latewood and end up with a relatively wavy surface, instead of the totally flat surface you’re looking to achieve.

If you’re after a darker finish, don’t sand with a grit any finer than medium or 100-grit. Sanding with this slightly rough grit helps to open the pores of the pine wood, which will accept more stain. What you don’t want to do is use a fine sanding sponge or 180-grit (or higher) sandpaper. This effectively polishes the wood and closes off the wood pores, making it tougher to stain the pine dark.

Eliminate blotchy finished pineAfter a thorough sand job, vacuum the project and then use a tag rag to wipe up all of the remaining dust particles.

Finished pine can look blotchy because of the different growth cycles of the wood (and is also dependent on how the final piece was cut.) To eliminate this unsightly problem, pick up a can of pre-stain wood conditioner at your local home center or paint store. The wood conditioner ensures a more uniform stain color by closing off some of the larger pores and reducing stain absorption in those areas.

However, making use of the wood conditioner helps make it tougher to stain pine dark. Nevertheless, so long as you’re working with a dark oil-based penetrating stain, you can get the dark shade you would like.

Follow the directions on the can for the wood conditioner. For most types, you’ll need to wait about 15 minutes before applying stain. But don’t wait too long. Allowing the wood conditioner to dry completely will completely block the wood pores and it will be difficult to achieve the dark color you’re looking for.

Begin staining

How you get the stain on the wood is not important. You can use a foam brush, regular brush, or clean cloth. Apply generously. Try not to get drips, though. To ensure a nice dark finish, wait as long as the manufacturer allows before wiping off the excess stain. Make sure you don’t wait too long though, or else the stain will get tacky and difficult to wipe off.

If your wood is not as dark as you’d hoped for, don’t give up hope. Wait at least a day or more for the piece to totally dry. Then follow the steps above to re-stain your project. Your pine wood finish will have taken on a deeper, darker shade.

Usually a few coats of stain will help you achieve the finish results you would like. One more thing to try is to wipe down your piece with mineral spirits before staining again.

Finally, to ensure consistent, beautiful results every time you’re staining pine wood, visit www.staining-pine-com for more tips.

Want to update a plain or boring bathroom mirror on a budget? Try this fun DIY task. Creating a Shabby Chic Bathroom Mirror is an easy task that can be accomplished in 1 weekend.

To start this Shabby Chic Bathroom Mirror Paint Technique task you will need to spend at least 1 weekend, but maybe a little more time.

Any real wood or inexpensive plain fake wood Bathroom Mirror are ideal for this Shabby Chic Paint Approach. If you don’t have a frame on your mirror, then try building 1 out of a picture frame or some inexpensive crown molding. Then apply this paint treatment.

Now, begin sanding the surface of your plain Bathroom Mirror. As soon as you have the surface lightly sanded, you ought to wipe off the dust with a clean dry clothe. An old white t-shirt will work perfectly here. You could also use liquid sander.

Now, you’re ready to put a coat of primer. If you are utilizing a inexpensive fake wood Bathroom Mirror this really is a very crucial step. Your Shabby Chic Paint Approach will not stick to your area should you do not sand and then prime your Bathroom Mirror surface.

If you would like a rough a lot more rustic Shabby Chic Bathroom Mirror try putting the primer on with one of the 4″ brushes. This will give texture and produce the appear of real wood. If you prefer the smoother appear you are able to roll the paint on with any type of paint roller. A foam roller will create the smoothest surface.

Allow your primer to dry completely.

Put on a coat of your base paint. This is either a sand color or tan color. You could do a yellowish tan. This paint should not be the actual colour you want your desk to end up, but the colour you want to show through whenever you finish the Shabby Chic Bathroom Mirror.

Now you’re prepared to paint your surface with the true color you wish it to be. I always recommend painting a white or antique white color for true Shabby Chic Bathroom Mirror.

Do not be scared to choose a bright white simply because the Shabby Chic Bathroom Mirror Paint Technique process will tone down the appearance from the stark white considerably if you would like.

As soon as your white shabby chic Bathroom Mirror colour has dried you are prepared to start roughing it up. Start by using the sand paper to rough up edges and other areas that would typically be utilized over time.

As soon as you have finished sanding the Bathroom Mirror area wipe the surface down having a clean dry cloth. That old white t-shirt will perform well here again. You are able to stop at this point, but if you would like to go the additional mile you can use a mixture of wood stain and glaze to darken your piece. This darkening will mimic years of dirt and also the aging process. If you use an antique white you do not have to do this.

Start by mixing you paint and glaze in a plastic container. Use a white rag or an additional old t-shirt to rub the stain onto the Bathroom Mirror.

You are able to do this procedure until you achieve the Shabby Chic Bathroom Mirror appearance you want for your vintage master bathroom, powder room, or small girl’s bathroom.

The author has written more about pottery barn mirror and shabby chic mirror on his site, check them out: http://www.shabbychicmirror.net/ and pottery barn mirror.

categories: interior design,home improvement,house,family,furniture

The ultimate function of these outdoor patio umbrellas would be to create shaded areas to enjoy time outside. They also complement a décor on a patio or deck that serves as an additional living space outside the home. Due to prolonged usage, the patio umbrellas would become old and worn or it will be damaged from inclement weather conditions. However it can be repaired quite easily in many cases and brought back to functional state.

The outdoor patio umbrellas can get pretty dirty after a full season outside in the elements. The umbrellas would be exposed to various elements like falling leaves, berries, seeds and bird droppings. Hence it is essential to give the umbrella a good cleaning before it is stowed away for the winter. Since the patio umbrellas are bulky, cleaning them would be a time consuming task. But make sure that you clean it properly to increase its shelf life.

You can begin the cleaning process by making a protective surface on the ground. You can use a bunch of towels, a tarp or an old blanket. The protective surface should be big enough to accommodate the umbrella when it is fully open. Open the umbrella completely and lay it on its side on the protective surface in such a way that no part of the umbrella would touch the ground. Once the umbrella is opened you need to check if the fabric can be removed from it. The fabric of some of the patio umbrellas can be removed and that would be easier for cleaning.

You need to use a hose to wet the umbrella. If you are not able to find a hose, you can pour clean water from bucket onto the surface. Make someone hold the umbrella in place to keep it from rolling off the protective surface. Fill a bucket with clean, warm water mixed with a mild detergent. You can use dish washing soap or laundry detergent. Using a cloth or soft sponge you need to start scrubbing the umbrella. If tough stains are present, you need to brace the area by putting your hand on the other side of the fabric. Poles and other hard surfaces can be cleaned using a rag soaked in warm soapy water.

Remember to use mild soap and a damp cloth to wipe down frame parts. For cleaning vinyl umbrellas you can get a convertible top cleaner from an automotive goods store. This is because soap and water is not enough to clean the vinyl umbrellas. For better cleaning process, you need to buy an outdoor patio umbrella that has a removable canopy which can be cleaned in the washing machine. Make sure that you don’t use abrasive cleaners on the frame or pole of the umbrella.

Rinse the umbrella with clean water to remove the soap and dirt. You need to thoroughly rinse to make sure that soap residues are not left on the umbrella. Keep the umbrella opened in the sun for drying before storing it inside.

John peter who is an author wrote this article. Get reliable patio water misters, water mist fan and high pressure misting fans from cool-off.com.

An antique wooden chest is sold in the market at an expensive rate. Many people like the wooden chests but they can’t afford to buy. To be frank, you don’t need to be upset. You don’t need to purchase the chest from the market. You can do it on your own.

I am serious. You can produce a nice antique chest successfully by just following FOUR simple instructions below:

Step 1: Get a simple wood chest

Don’t waste your time to produce a chest. You can get the ready-made original wooden chest from anywhere. In general, normal chests are sold at very low price. After you have got the chest, you should start sanding the wood chest with a hand sander. You need to make sure that you sand the surface until it is smooth and free from any varnish or paint. After that, you are required to wipe the particular chest with a damp cloth.

Step 2: Paint the wooden chest

After wiping the chest, you should then proceed to paint the chest with oil-based primer. You need to use the paint brush to paint the chest evenly. Then, you should allow the oil-based primer to dry completely before you apply a coat of satin-finish oil. You are recommended to use satin-finish oil instead of using flat-finish paint. Flat-finish paint may cause blotches on the wooden chest. Again, you are reminded to make sure that the chest is completely dry.

Step 3: Apply glaze

Now, here is an important part. You need to follow carefully. You need to mix one portion of brown paint with 3 portions of antiquing glaze. Brush the mixture onto the wooden chest. When you are applying the mixture, you are advised to brush it in small sections at a time. After you have applied the glaze, you must wipe off the glaze with a cheese cloth immediately. Since it is an antique chest, in order to present a more distressed look, you are suggested to apply extra glaze to the crevices and corners of the chest. The glaze will be able to set into the paint and it helps to highlight the corners of the chest. By doing so, the chest will look like it has been worn for a long time.

Step 4: Apply polyurethane to provide extra protection

The last step you need to take is to apply one coat of polyurethane. The step is a must because you need to give better protection to the wooden chest. Use the paintbrush to paint the chest in order to make it more durable.

Looking forward to having a classy antique wooden chest to keep your collectibles? Just follow the above mentioned steps and you can make your dream come true. You can make use of the chest to store your things, at the same time, you can consider making it as a unique decorator in your house too.

A common home improvement task is maintenance of connections made with wood screw fasteners. Specifically, they tend to come loose on things that are frequently used. Whether it’s a door hinge, lock set, wall mounted banister, door stop or coat hook – once they start to work themselves loose, they only get worse, so you must take action.

Here are four suggestions for getting wood screw fasteners tight again:

• Plug the hole with wood matches or toothpicks. It’s simple and effective. It really amounts to jamming soft wood into the hole to take up the space that is creating looseness. Wooden match sticks (not the heads) are a soft wood that make plugging the hole easy. You can also splinter a piece of lumber as well. Simply tap in enough wood pieces to fit snugly in the hole and break them off flush with the surface. Then, replace the screw and tighten it in place.
• Drive a wooden golf tee into the hole. This works much like suggestion #1 above, except the golf tee is usually made from hardwood, so it’s good for jobs where you have a larger and deeper hole to plug, and the wood screws are larger than average.
• Use wood glue. For screws that are just starting to get loose, you can insert a little wood glue into the hole to bond the screw to the adjacent wood. Apply the glue with a syringe, small nail or toothpick, and tighten up the screw. This is known as “screwed and glued” and it’s not uncommon for making good tight connections. Think of it as “lock-tite” for wood.
• Find a larger or longer screw. This is a variation on plugging the hole. Instead of using wood to plug the hole, you find a wider diameter screw or a longer screw. In either case, the larger/longer screw will find new wood to bite into. Just be certain that the larger/longer screw is compatible with what you’re securing with it and the depth of the wood you’re screwing into.

If these methods don’t help, you’ll probably have to look at other alternatives like a mounting plate, using a plastic wall anchor, or using adhesive to put things in their place to stay.

Clair Schwan likes do-it-yourself projects and can show you an effective way to permanently mount things to the wall when wood fasteners just don’t cut it.

A crown moulding is a decorative addition to the wall, ceiling, doors, windows, or columns to make it look more elegant and attractive. These mouldings are generally made from different materials. This includes wood, polyurethane, or concrete. The preferred material is wood and polyurethane.

There are many companies that custom make crown moulding as per the provided specs. The designer can send the measurements and other details to such companies and they will make the mouldings or ceiling medallions to perfection and ship them to the address. Some of them also come and carry out the installation of the mouldings. There is a formula that is used to get the corners right. The installation can be done by oneself if adequate care is taken. These are the steps to be followed to install crown moulding, especially readymade moulding.

* First, hold the moulding to the place on the wall where it has to be installed. Position it well. With a pencil, mark the position.

* If the ready-made moulding has to be cut to fit into the place, place it on a holder, and cut it at a 45 degree angle at the length required.

* Smooth out the cut sides with a sanding block.

* Using something like a joint compound, place the moulding on the wall. Once the compound dries, it is advisable to add nails so that the crown moulding is fixed strongly in position.

* For the corners, try and fit the cut corners properly. The rest of the gaps can be filled up with white mud. This can also be used to fill any other gap that may arise. Hands or a knife can be used to smooth the excess compound and mud and make it look uniform.

* Once the nails are driven in, some more compound can be pushed into joints with a putty knife to make the hold stronger. This again has to be smoothened with sanding block to give it a uniform feel.

* Once the compound and mud has dried, use a sanding paper over the entire crown moulding. This will give it a good finish.

* Finally, paint the moulding in a color of your choice.

It is not necessary to install the moulding on your own. Many people like to carry out home makeover projects by themselves. For such people, these tips will be very useful. Others prefer to get things done by the contractor, who would do the entire installation.

Crown moulding is a part of home décor and can give the home a colonial look which is very elegant. People use mouldings for decorative columns, ceilings, and walls. These are available in simple lines or with motifs like leafs, vines, etc. If the house has crown mouldings in place and has a colonial edge, it is advisable to have home furnishing that matches the style. This will complete the look of the home.

Do you need a new desk? Are you a bit too tall or a bit too wide for a desk you can find at a local store? Then you should consider making your own! All you will need are desk woodworking plans, some basic tools, and desire to learn something new. Here are 8 tools you will need for your project.

Chisels

Chisels are used for a number of purposes and you can’t afford to work without one. Their purpose is to remove shavings, cut out grooves, mortise, or fit joints.

Hammers

You can encounter three kinds of hammers in woodworking. Claw hammers are a good all-round choice for most basic tasks. Dead blow mallets are necessary whenever you need to prevent bounce, typically for putting together pieces that need to be tapped carefully in place. Finally, a sledge hammer is needed when you have to do some heavy hitting.

Clamps

If your desk woodworking plans require gluing parts together, you will need a clamp. When you glue two parts, a clamp is the tool that will keep them in place until the glue is completely dried. Since clamps are made of steel, you should put a piece of scrap wood between the jaws and the wood to avoid damage.

Saws

Saws come in different shapes and sizes depending on what you need them for. A fret saw has a very thin blade and is used for intricate designs. A compass saw has a narrow blade that is perfect for cutting along curves. For heavy cutting you can use a timber saw that comes in one- or two-handed varieties (for sawing in pairs).

Planes

When the surface of wood is rough or when the board has troublesome grain, you need a plane. It’s a two-handed tool for smoothing the surface of wood or shaping the board

Screwdrivers

There are three types of screwdrivers. Flat-slots are basic screwdrivers. You need to have them, but use others whenever you can. Phillips (cross-shaped) or Robertson (square-shaped) are a much better choice because they don’t slip or get damaged as easily.

Hand Drills

A hand drill is an essential power tool, so important that you should own one even before you start thinking about getting other power tools. Apart from drilling holes, you can gets attachments that will turn the drill into a sander, screwdriver, grinder, or paint mixer.

Measuring tools

Levels, tape measure, rulers, or squares are the tools that convert your desk woodworking plans into a functional piece of furniture rather than abstract artwork that would please Picasso.

With these tools and some hard work you will turn desk woodworking plans into a desk that will be both good-looking and functional for years to come.

Your woodworking project is doomed without great desk woodworking plans. Even if you have little experience, with these desk woodworking plans you can get off to a flying start!

Do you need a new desk? Are you a bit too tall or a bit too wide for a desk you can find at a local store? Then you should consider making your own! All you will need are desk woodworking plans, some basic tools, and desire to learn something new. Here are 8 tools you will need for your project.

Chisels

Chisels are used for a number of purposes and you can’t afford to work without one. Their purpose is to remove shavings, cut out grooves, mortise, or fit joints.

Hammers

You can encounter three kinds of hammers in woodworking. Claw hammers are a good all-round choice for most basic tasks. Dead blow mallets are necessary whenever you need to prevent bounce, typically for putting together pieces that need to be tapped carefully in place. Finally, a sledge hammer is needed when you have to do some heavy hitting.

Clamps

If your desk woodworking plans require gluing parts together, you will need a clamp. When you glue two parts, a clamp is the tool that will keep them in place until the glue is completely dried. Since clamps are made of steel, you should put a piece of scrap wood between the jaws and the wood to avoid damage.

Saws

Saws come in different shapes and sizes depending on what you need them for. A fret saw has a very thin blade and is used for intricate designs. A compass saw has a narrow blade that is perfect for cutting along curves. For heavy cutting you can use a timber saw that comes in one- or two-handed varieties (for sawing in pairs).

Planes

When the surface of wood is rough or when the board has troublesome grain, you need a plane. It’s a two-handed tool for smoothing the surface of wood or shaping the board

Screwdrivers

There are three types of screwdrivers. Flat-slots are basic screwdrivers. You need to have them, but use others whenever you can. Phillips (cross-shaped) or Robertson (square-shaped) are a much better choice because they don’t slip or get damaged as easily.

Hand Drills

A hand drill is an essential power tool, so important that you should own one even before you start thinking about getting other power tools. Apart from drilling holes, you can gets attachments that will turn the drill into a sander, screwdriver, grinder, or paint mixer.

Measuring tools

Levels, tape measure, rulers, or squares are the tools that convert your desk woodworking plans into a functional piece of furniture rather than abstract artwork that would please Picasso.

With these tools and some hard work you will turn desk woodworking plans into a desk that will be both good-looking and functional for years to come.

Your woodworking project is doomed without great desk woodworking plans. Even if you have little experience, with these desk woodworking plans you can get off to a flying start!

It may seem a bit odd to want to make a newer piece of furniture look like an antique. After all, isn’t that what antiques are for?

Unfortunately, antiques can be pretty pricey. And with just a little time and labor, you can turn an ordinary piece of furniture that you have in your house, found at a garage or estate sale or discovered hidden away in the corner of a thrift store and turn it into a beautiful piece of antique furniture.

The first task at hand is to pick the right piece of furniture for antiquing. Obviously, you don’t want to do this with a contemporary or modern piece of furniture. It won’t look quite right no matter what you do.

Start by applying primer to the furniture and then let it dry thoroughly. Overnight is good, 24 hours is even better. Now you’re ready to add the first coat of paint. Latex is the best choice since it dries fast and is easy to clean up. When it’s completely dry, add a second coat. If you want, you can use two different colors of paint to increase the appearance that the chair has been around a long time and has been repainted several times over the years.

Ready for the magic to happen? The first thing to do is remove some of the point in the areas where the furniture would naturally show wear over time. This can be around the edges of a chair seat, an arm rest, the sides of a table or around knobs. 60 grit sandpaper will work well with this. Just be sure that you don’t sand too deep. You just want to wear some of the paint off so the lower layer of paint or the wood shows through. Once you like the look, go over the area with some 120 grit paper to smooth any rough spots out.

If you want to make it look a little more weather beaten and time worn, you can use a little tough love to create more interesting effects. One of these is to use a heavy chain about a foot long. Hit the furniture with the chain. It will make irregular indentations. You can use fencing pliers to make little holes in the wood, as if bugs had been boring into it. The pliers can also put in some scratches in strategic places. Don’t get too carried away. You want your furniture to look antiqued, not mugged.

Remember that you want to age it with a chain and fencing pliers before you paint. Otherwise you’ll just undo all the hard work you just did.

A hammer can create some interesting effects as well. Again, be random with the marks. Don’t get carried away with their placement or group things together too closely.

For an aged wood effect, you can apply lye-based oven cleaner over the surface of the furniture. Wipe away any excess. Then coat with vinegar, which will neutralize the oven cleaner and leave the wood looking gray, as if it had sat outdoors for years. If you want to add a few water rings, you can use a tin can that has been filled with hot water. Wet the bottom, set the can down for about 15 minutes or so, and voila! Instant water ring.

To add dimension to your antique furniture, apply a little brown or black shoe polish around the edges. This works great on the spindles of a chair back or down on the turned legs. Work the polish in with a rag, then lightly wipe of the excess. The polish will stay in the grooves and channels of the wood, giving it more depth and complexity.

If you want a darker color to the wood, use a dark colored paste wax. Generously apply it to the areas that you want to have a deeper color and then wipe off the excess. It can really enhance the antiquing effect.

These techniques aren’t hard to learn at all and with a little practice, you may be able to rejuvenate a tired looking piece of wood furniture with a little antiquing, letting it shine anew by looking old.

Author Jennifer Akre is an owner of a wide variety of online specialty shops including that offer both items and information on how you can easily furnish and decorate your space. Whether it is coffee tables for your living room or a console table for you newly remodeled home, there are many tips you can use to make any spot both functional and beautiful. Click today and indulge your senses.

If you’re a homeowner then you probably have heard the horror stories about friends or family who’ve planned a big outdoor party, only to uncover their patio furniture and find the cushions covered with mold, mildew and unsightly stains.

Suddenly, your big bash is going to be a big dud instead, all because you didn’t properly maintain your patio furniture cushions. Thankfully, you may be able to salvage your existing cushions with a little elbow grease.

Start by spraying the cushions down with the hose. Then treat them with a solution that is one cup of bleach and a gallon of water. Soak the cushion with the solution thoroughly. Let it sit for 10 minutes, they let it dry. With any luck, the mold and mildew wasn’t too deeply seated in the fabric and will come out without much of a fight.

If you can’t remove it, you may just have to purchase new cushions. If you do, know that you don’t have to make the same mistake. With a few simple precautions, you can be confident that your cushions will look like new and be ready to go at a moment’s notice for many summers to come.

Before you ever clean patio furniture cushions, you need to find out what the fabric is made of. Some products can actually weaken or even dissolve certain fabrics so you always want to start by reading the tag on the cushion and follow the manufacturer’s recommendations. If you already ripped off the tags, you’ll want to see if you can find the manufacturer’s recommendations online or in an online forum.

Most cushions on the market today are made of acrylics or acrylic/polyester fabrics that are designed to reduce fading and repel water. The padding is usually polyester, as it doesn’t hold onto water and dries quickly after a periodic rain storm.

To keep your cushions looking like new, you should remove dirt and leaves from them every month during the summer months. If they start to look a little dirty, you can sponge them off with a mixture of water and mild detergent. If the stains are stubborn, use a brush.

Before you put them away for the season you want to clean them thoroughly. Mold spores can embed themselves into the fabric and you don’t want to give them a chance to take hold and grow in the off season. If the manufacturer doesn’t offer much direction on this, you can use a solution of bleach, laundry detergent and water to give your cushions a deep cleaning. Before you go too far, always test an area to make sure your mixture won’t damage or discolor the fabric.

Once the cushions are clean and have had time to dry, apply a water repellent over the entire surface. You’ll want to apply two coats just to be safe. The cleaning process can reduce the ability of your furniture to repel water so you want to give it a little extra help. Spray water repellents are available in any home improvement store.

When your cushions are clean and have dried completely, it’s time to put them away until the warm weather comes back around. While it may be tempting to store them in a plastic bag, don’t. The cushions need to breathe. A bag may actually promote mold and mildew growth, trapping moisture.

If your cushions have pesky stains, create a solution of one teaspoon of Borax powder, a teaspoon of dishwashing detergent and a quart of warm water. Put it in a spray bottle and treat the stain liberally. Soak it for about 15 minutes, then rinse it off with a garden hose.

Cushions made of canvas or cloth will require a little extra work. If the cushions are removable, take the covers off and wash them in your washer. Air dry them and then put them back on the foam padding. If you dry them in a dryer they may shrink and you’ll never be able to get them back on. If your cushions can’t be removed, take a scrub brush, dip it into water and rub it on a bar of soap. Rub the stain until it lathers up. Let it sit for a few minutes, then clean thoroughly. Once the stain is gone apply fabric protector.

Unfortunately, stains from suntan oil or lotion can never be removed. In fact, they can severely damage the fabric, so always place a towel between you and the cushion.

Author Jennifer Akre is an owner of numerous niche online stores that offer customers not only products, but information relating to furnishing and decorating indoor and outdoor living spaces. Whether you want to renew your deck or patio with Adirondack chairs or create the ultimate living environment with Adirondack furniture that is perfect for entertaining, there is a lot of helpful advice to take advantage of to make it happen. Click today and indulge your senses.