Are you tired of looking at those out dated sliding closet doors? Instead of investing in new doors why not investigate the option of remodeling them. In standard new built developments contractors keep the house prices low by installing inexpensive features and your closet doors may be in need of a face lift.

The great thing is you don’t even need to remove them in order to spruce them up. You have options at your fingertips you probably are not even aware of.

In this article we’ll explore the wide array of choices to modify and beautify your current sliding closet doors.

Your first option would be to add a coat of paint. The standard choice is usually bare or white wood. By using a latex- based paint you’ll add a distinct luster to the material. A designer technique called white washing can also be used.

To white wash your closet doors you’ll need white paint and a complementary color paint along with two paint brushes, disposable rags and denatured alcohol. Test piece some scrap wood to practice your technique.

Clean the doors first so the paint will adhere better to the surface. When they are dry apply a coat of paint starting with the base and working up to the doors. Once the one coat is dry you then apply the complementary color of your choice directly over the first coat of white paint.

Then using your practice wood dip a rag into the alcohol and rub the wood lightly or as heavily as you wish which will depend on your desired consistency. If you want just a peek of the other colors showing through then rub lightly consequently a heavier rub will produce a bolder effect.

Once you are satisfied with the look of your practice piece you can remodel your sliding closet doors. Change your rags often or they will not work the way they should. After you have finished you can reattach the doors to their base. You can even go one step further by adding new handles to kick the look up a notch.

Once your cabinets are clean and dry, begin by applying a white coat of paint. Start with the base of the cabinets and work your way to the doors. This way, once you are ready to re-hang the doors, you can be sure the bases will be totally dry. Be sure to let the cabinets dry completely. Depending on the climate, paint will take longer to dry in humid conditions, so take that into consideration when doing this project. A rule of thumb would be to wait at least 24 hours before going to the next step.

Once all the bases are covered with one coat of white paint and totally dry, apply a coat of blue (complementary color of your choice) paint directly over the initial white coat. Again, wait until this coat is completely dry before proceeding to step three, which is to apply another coat of white paint over the blue. After 24 hours’ of drying time for this third coat of paint, it’s time to “whitewash.”

Another design element popular with home interior designers is the use of mirrors. Attach a full length mirror on one side and paint the other door any solid color of your choice. Then as a unique touch you can either stencil or apply using a freehand artistry artistic touch such as flowers or an expression or quote that resonates with you. The choice is yours as to what appeals and fits your overall design preferences.

How about adding texture to your sliding closet doors with the addition of molding? A moderately flat type of molding with specific design elements is your best choice. A thicker type molding may tend to cause the second door to catch. This simple construction can be completed by nailing or gluing the molding. If you choose you can also paint the molding in a complementary color from the door.

Stenciling adds a very chic look especially when done in black on white. Keep the doors themselves white in color. Then choose stencils in any sort of intricate shapes. You then stencil them on using black paint. Shelving is another great way to change up the look of your sliding closet doors. Paint the doors a solid color. They can be found at virtually every home store. The kits come with complete instruction and are very easy to install.

Joel is an expert author whose been publishing online for several years. Visit his latest website discussing Sliding Closet Doors. These insightful articles are a must read if you are considering upgrading the look of your home with sliding room dividers.

The first, and possible the most important thing to do is to check that your sliding gate is running smoothly along the whole length of the track, and that it is in good condition. That is, no rust or rot. If its hard to push or pull, or binds on the track, fix the problem before you do anything else. The gate must be in good working order, and not bowed.

Next, you will need to run a power cable from the consumer unit, through a RCD circuit breaker, to the location of the motor. A residual-current device (RCD) is an electrical wiring device that disconnects a circuit when it detects that the electric current is not balanced between the live and the neutral conductor.

Such an imbalance may indicate current leakage through the body of a person who is grounded and accidentally touching the energized part of the circuit. A lethal shock can result from these conditions. RCDs are designed to disconnect quickly enough to prevent injury caused by such shocks. This work should be completed by a qualified electrician. Or you could fit the type of motor that can run on solar power. Although the initial cost of a solar kit may be a little more than hiring an electrician to lay the cable, free electricity is always a good idea.

Now is the time to purchase the motor, a kit is usually the best way to go, as they come with control electronics and receiver fitted internally. This way you can guarantee that all the components are compatible. It will come with a base plate to secure the motor to the ground. It will also have the correct rack and remote controls and photocells, and most of the fittings required.

If your drive is already laid with concrete I would strongly suggest that you secure the plate using anchor bolts. If your drive is gravel or dirt you must dig a hole where the motor is going to fit and fill with concrete, at the same time embedding the plate into the wet mix. Don’t forget to bring the power cable up through the plate, and take another cable out for the photocells.

The position is critical. Not only must it be perfectly level, you must also remember to measure the distance from the side of the gate plus the size of the rack (that’s the bar with teeth) and the spacers that they are fitted with. The rack should fit over the middle of the toothed wheel on the motor. Make sure that the gate doesn’t have any large nuts protruding from around the wheels, as these could foul the motor. Once the base plate is fitted you should refer to the instructions that came with the kit. If you fitted the plate into concrete I would suggest that you let the mix set for 2 weeks before you fit the motor

When the motor is securely in place proceed to fit the rack to the gate. This can be accomplished either by welding or screwing the rack in place.

Fitting the rack.

• Rest the first rack element on the gear and fit it to the gate with screws and spacers, sliding the gate backwards and forwards.
• For correct positioning of the next piece, clamp a section upside down to the first, and then the next piece sits on top. Fix this to the gate. Continue until all in place.
• There must be a clearance between the rack and gear of at least 1 mm so that the gate never weighs on the gear motor.
• It is important that the gear motor is firmly secured to the ground during the gate travel.
• Position the two limit stop brackets on the rack and move the gate by hand to fix them in place.
• Fit the limit stops so that the gate will not knock into the mechanical stops.

Fitting the photocells.

• The photocells should be fitted about 60cm above ground level to give protection to most cars.

Photocells or Photo Electric Beams use a beam of invisible infra-red light that passes from a transmitter unit to a receiving unit. If the beam is broken you know something is in the way. These are used with automatic gates on either side of a driveway as a safety device to prevent a gate closing. These must be fitted to all new installations.

There are three types of Photocells:

Reflector Beam - this has the transmitter and receiver on one side with a special reflector on the other. The advantage of the reflector beam is you only need to run wiring to one side of the driveway. Reflector beams are not recommended for outside use as any rain on the reflector can stop it working.

Point to Point Beam – this is best for Automatic Gates as there is a transmitter on one side of the driveway and the receiver on the other. These tend to be very reliable when used outside.

Dual Beam – which is basically two point to point beams built- in the one unit. You must break both beams before it will work. These are normally used for outdoor security perimeter alarms.

Alignment

• The important thing when installing Photocells is to make sure they are aligned with each other. The beam of light coming from the transmitter is quite narrow, if not aimed at the receiver properly it may not work. Worse still, if they only just work, some rain on them will stop them working, which will leave the gate open.

When all the electrical connection are made check that the gate moves correctly. Memorize the remote controls to the fitted receiver.

Follow the instruction manual in testing the installation. Make sure that everything is tight and that there is no movement of the motor when the gate starts and stops.

Job complete.

Caution

The civil liability policy, which covers possible injuries to people or accidents caused by defects in construction, requires the system to be to existing standard and to use original manufactures accessories.

Hi, I’m Colin Proctor, I have been installing and repairing electric gates, on the Costa del Sol, for 12 years. If you would like more information, on any type of gate automation problem visit my website http://expertgates.com.

Torsion springs and extension springs are used for garage doors. Long and heavy springs, attached to the upper portion of the door are called extension springs. They are also known as side-mounted springs. Torsion springs, on the other hand, are attached to a fixed metal plate. They are placed parallel to the surface of the door frame and above the center of the door frame. Torsion springs work on the basic principle of tension. There are cables attached to each side of the lower panel of the garage door. When the garage door closes, these springs twist. As the springs are under tension, they can easily lift the garage door.

How to Replace Garage Door Springs

Replacing garage door torsion springs with new ones can be done easily by following these steps:

First, you need to do is to stop the power supply. Disconnect the power cord of the door opener and remove it from the door. Those who are having an old garage door opener need to, either flip the circuit breaker or remove the fuse depending upon the type.
Make sure that you are replacing the old spring with an appropriate new one. Check both the springs for its dimensions and type. Avoid grabbing the spring or touching the winding cones of the spring.
Mark each end of the torsion shaft. It helps in leveling the garage doors, after the installation of the new springs.
Wind off the unbroken torsion spring and undo and take off the bolts that secure the torsion cones to the spring bracket.
Now, replace the torsion springs and reinstall all the torsion hardware.
Wind up newly replaced torsion springs.
Check for the door balance and level. Apply some lubricant to minimize the friction.
Connect the door opener again, after the check-up.

This is how you can replace the torsion springs of the garage door. Though it is easy, it needs to be done extremely carefully.

Tips for Replacing Garage Door Springs

Garage door spring replacement can be dangerous, if it is not done with proper precaution because of the tension in the springs. Do it with extreme precaution, otherwise you may end up losing your hand, fingers, eyes, limbs or even life.

Gather all the necessary tools and accessories, before you start to replace the garage door torsion springs.
Release the tension in the old springs, before replacement.
Do not touch the cable drum.
Never wind up or wind off the torsion springs, with the help of a screwdriver.
Always insert a well-fitting bar into the winding cone first, before touching a setscrew. Avoid using a box or socket wrench for the setscrew.
Always keep a bar in the cone, while replacing the door springs.
Never touch the bracket, when the springs are wound.
Check whether you have an appropriate wind in your newly replaced torsion spring.
Do not expose yourself to any unnecessary risks. Call a professional, in case of any difficulties.

Average life of a torsion spring is about 10,000 cycles, however it differs for every spring. Replacing faulty or broken garage door springs is not a very difficult task, you can even do it yourself if you follow the procedure carefully.

f your garage overhead door has become loose in it’s tracks or seems heavier to lift than it used to be, you may well be correct. Door hinges and rollers wear out over time and become sloppy. Adding grease may help for a short period but in the end you will have to replace some of the door parts. Basically there three types of hinges used. They are stamped #1, #2 and #3’s. When you look at your door you will notice that at the top and bottom are two roller brackets that are different from the rest of the hinges on the door listed above. The bottom roller bracket also has a protruding peg where the spring cable is attached. The top bracket projects further out from the door then the rest of the rollers to allow the door to when opened, immediately follow the curved section of the track without binding. A word of caution. Never remove the bottom bracket without first disconnecting the lift spring and cable when the door is open. If the cable is removed from the bottom roller bracket with the door closed, the spring will recoil with no control and can cause a serious injury.

Before removing any hinges, close the door and place two C-clamps or Vise grips in both tracks just at the top of the door to prevent any movement if the lift springs are still connected. You may by removing one hinge at a time (not the bottom roller bracket), replace each hinge one by one in the exact position where it was removed. Purchase roller grease made for overhead door rollers and apply a liberal amount of grease to each roller as it is installed. Remind yourself to do this once a year as maintenance.

Once all the hinges are replaced take a good look at the door itself to assure that all the panels are in sound condition, all glass is unbroken and any other bolts or screws at the lift or foot handles for example are in place and are tight. If the bottom weather seal is broken or missing, replace that as well. Finish the door with a new coat of paint it needs it.

Remove your c-clamps and raise the door to the full open position. This will take all the tension out of the lift springs. If you do not know what “weight” your door springs are, most springs are spray a painted color on one end. Red, yellow, white and so on. Each color indicates what weight door it should be used on. Wood doors are very heavy and usually use the heaviest spring available. Aluminum doors, the lightest springs and so on. Carefully remove one side of the door’s spring and cable. Check the cable pulley to assure it is not split or worn. Replace the spring, pulley and cable in the exact same manner in which is was removed. If in doubt, look at the one you have not removed as yet. Once both springs are replaced operate the door a number of times placing some extra grease in the tracks for the rollers to spread.

Your garage door should by much quieter to operate and much easier to lift and close. If you intend to install an electric garage door opener, these maintenance items are a must before you do the installation.

Pete Ackerson

Pete Ackerson is a 30+ year building inspector with experience in both public and private construction industries. From schools to treatment plants, from private homes and condo projects, to large residential landscaping projects, he has worked both in the building design areas and field construction in the Eastern US. In 2006 he formed along with two other building inspectors, Wagsys LLC which produced software for municipal agencies in the fields of building departments, planning boards and Zoning Boards of Appeals.

If the sliding glass doors in your home are more than 10 years old, you might notice that they are becoming harder to slide open. This problem is even more common on aluminum frame dual pane doors. The reason is because the doors are heavier due to the dual pane glass, but many of the aluminum units did not use stainless steel rollers. So, in many cases, the rollers get rusty from moisture and they start to bind.

In order to replace the rollers, you have to remove the sliding panel from the opening. In most instances, the fixed panel must be removed in order for the sliding panel to come out. There is a simple way to determine whether or not your fixed panel has to come out as well. If the slider is on the inside track and the fixed panel is on the outside track, you have to remove both panels, because the slider will only come out from the outside. There is a lip on the bottom of the track inside your house. That lip keeps water from coming in. Unfortunately, that lip is also too high to lift the sliding panel up and over. So, you have to remove the fixed panel first, then lift and swing out the slider from outside. If you are one of the few people who have a slider on the outside track, then you can lift your slider out without removing the fixed panel.

But, let’s assume you need to remove the fixed panel first. Here is what you do: Remove your screen door if you have one. The screen door will have two rollers on the bottom. Lift one end of the door frame with one hand while using a flat screwdriver to lift the roller off the track. Do that on both sides, then take out the screen door and set it aside. Now, look for a metal piece on the bottom track that runs from the bottom corner of the fixed panel all the way across to the bottom of the side jamb that has the door lock hardware. If your door is really old that piece might be missing. If you have one, you can pry it up from the track. It is snapped in place even though it looks like it is a part of the track. Once you have that piece removed, you want to look inside the house where the fixed panel is against the wall jam. Look for screws holding the frame to the jam. They usually have one near the top and bottom corners, and one near the center. Remove these screws and put them where you won’t lose them.

Now, you should be able to pull the fixed panel out of the side jam. There is a very good chance that it will be stuck. If it is, grab the center rail near the bottom and lift up as hard as you can. If you feel the panel go up, pull it back down. Do this a couple of times, then try to pull it out of the side jam again. This usually loosens it enough to pull it out. If it still won’t come out, you will have to put a thin screwdriver between the fixed panel frame and the side jam and pry while a helper pulls the panel away from the jam. Once you get it free of the side jam, grab the fixed panel side rail and have a helper grab the other rail. Lift the panel up into the top track and swing the bottom out of the bottom track. Remove the panel from the top track and set it aside with the screen door.

Now, you can try lifting the slider up and out, just like you did with the fixed panel. If the slider won’t clear the bottom track, you need to do a couple of things. First, look to see if it’s the old rollers protruding from the bottom that is preventing the door from coming out, or if the actual bottom of the door frame is hitting the track. In almost all cases, it will be the old rollers. But, if the opening is 8′ wide, sometimes the wood header that runs across the opening has sagged just enough to make it tight in the center of the opening. If it’s the rollers, you need to adjust them all the way up into the door. Look for a hole on the bottom side where you can put a phillips screwdriver and find the adjustment screw. Then turn that screw counterclockwise as far as you can. Do that to both sides, then try lifting out the door. If you are still getting stuck, have your helper lift one side and pull outward while you try to pry the frame and roller over the track. If you get one side out, have your helper hold that side with his or her foot to prevent it from going back in while he or she lifts the other side for you to pry free.

Once you get the slider out, almost all rollers are held in place by the same screw that holds the frame corners together. So, you need to set the panel on one side, remove the screw in the corner, flip the panel over, remove the screw on the other bottom corner. Now, you can take a rubber mallet or the wood handle of a hammer, and tap the bottom frame off the glass. This will give you access to your rollers. Take a close look at how they are inserted into the door frame. In fact, it’s a good idea to only remove one roller to bring with you to match for the new ones. Then, when you get back home, you can use the roller that is still in place as a guide to installing the new ones.

Places like Home Depot, Lowes, and Ace Hardware carry about 80-90% of the rollers out there. So, you should be able to find them. However, let’s say this just isn’t your lucky day, and you can’t find your rollers anywhere.

You are going to have to have them ordered. Bring the roller to your local glass shop. If you’re lucky, they will have them in stock. If not, they can order the rollers, but you won’t get them for about a week. Don’t panic.

Just go home and tap the bottom frame back on the door panel, but leave the corner screws out. You can even leave the roller out that you removed. Lift the door back in place, install the fixed panel but don’t snap the bottom piece back in, and don’t install the inside screws. Then, from inside the house, lift the slider and pull it closed. You don’t want to drag it if you left the roller out. It will scrape the bottom track. Just lift it enough to take the pressure off, and close and lock it.

When Your new rollers come in, take everything back out and install the new rollers. Adjust the new rollers all the way up before putting the door back in. That way, the new rollers won’t interfere with you lifting it back in place. Adjust the new rollers down until the door slides good and locks.

You want to be sure there is an equal gap at the top and bottom when the door is about an inch from closing into the side jam. You can adjust the rollers to make this dimension even. If you can get the job done by a professional for $50 or $60 including parts, it might be worth hiring someone to do it. But, in high population areas such as Los Angeles, it’s common to pay $100 in labor only. Then they mark up the cost of the rollers, and you could wind up spending $130 for a job that you can do yourself for about $20. Next week i’m going to tell you how to repair your broken or defective window glass.

Gone are the days when you need to haul heavy garage doors. Today, the garage door motor has made things much easier and simpler. It can also be a challenge when the motor does not work properly. This article offers you 5 effective tips in keeping your garage entry door motor up to its shape and properly working at all times.

How the Motor Operates: When it comes to convenience, garage gate motor simplifies the opening and closing of the garage. It is made up of an electric motor placed on a ceiling as well as a series of chains or belts. The electric motor triggers the chain to move like a pulley and sets the rollers to move upward and downward. By pressing a button, the garage doorway opens conveniently allowing you to secure your car without any worries.

If there is a power-related problem, there is always a spare key that allows you to open it manually. But what if the problem lies in the motor? What if the motor is not properly working? Will you immediately opt for replacement? Should you use the traditional method of manual opening instead? Below are the 5 effective tips in maintaining your car port entry door.

Effective Tip# 1 – Check the Motor, Belt, Rollers, and Tracks: Do a monthly check on the motors, belt, rollers and trackers of the garage door motor because these parts can get loose due to frequent handling. See to it that the door with its series of chains is properly aligned and place in the middle of the garage ceiling. Otherwise, it can cause problems each time you open or close the door.

Effective Tip# 2 – Listen to the Closing and Opening of the Motor: Can you hear grating or whining sounds when you close or open the garage door? This might be an indication of a motor problem. It is possible that there might be an obstruction or damage with the motor gears.

Effective Tip# 3 – Watch Out for Cracks: Check out visible damages on the motor or on the chains. Are there any cracks? Are there signs of burns? Such observations can indicate possible damages resulting from misalignment and deterioration of the motor system.

Effective Tip# 4 – Observe the Sensor Lights: Garage doors have built-in light sensors that serve as indicators when there’s a problem with the motor. To help you read the sensor lights, you may consult on the manual to understand meaning of the warnings. To check if warning is genuine, try unplugging the motor and wait for several hours before reconnecting it. If the warning light is still present then consult the manual to know what it means.

Effective Tip# 5 – Push the Reset Button: Press the reset button to check the warning lights then try to open and close the car port entry gate if the lights have cleared.

If you follow these tips, you may prolong the life of the motor and keep it in its best shape. It may be time consuming but it is worth your time because it will save you money from replacing it with a new one. However, if all else fails, then you should consult an expert to check on the problem of your garage door motor.

Dan Pevney has been providing helpful information regarding Garage Door Buffalo for many years. His expertise is the result of years of hands on experience in the garage door business. If you are having trouble with your door and would like some help he recommends giving Garage Door Repair Buffalo a call.

Garages are often neglected or have been automatically regarded as mere parking spaces or storage rooms. This space actually serves a great purpose in protecting your vehicle. You must then give it proper care. Start by checking out the condition of garage doors. And once you find considerable damages, consider installing a new one.

In selecting the replacement garage door, it is not necessary to get the same type as you have before. On the other hand, you still have to be mindful if there are any space restrictions. Garage door types such as rollers and sectionals are ideal options for homes with short or small driveways. The former kind rolls up around a drum above the opening. The latter is pulled up until it is parallel to the garage ceiling upon opening it.

Up-and-over and swing hung garage doors both necessitate for wide opening space. The former works like the sectional type, but needs to swing outwards to be opened. The latter works like a normal door as it needs to be hinged to the opening of the garage.

Before finalizing your pick, determine other attributes of the door type you are rooting for. Each door type has different outputs in terms of efficiency, durability, maintenance needs, insulation R-value, thickness, material composition, strength and gauge track, hardware, security and safety issues, counterbalance spring mechanism, construction of sections and warranty duration. Conduct further research about the standard levels for each criterion.

The decision as to who would take over this task is also crucial. If you have had previous experience with an installation project as major as this, proceed but with extreme caution. Remember that garage doors manufactured these days might require special tools and/or techniques in mounting them. Should you feel insufficiently adept with the task requisites, you could always get service from a professional garage door installer.

Another crucial component involved in garage door installation is proper budgeting. Get at least three quotes for door prices and labor fees. Evaluate if the price the product or labor demands would be justified by its quality. To be certain of door and service quality and competence, use online sites that cater reviews for these concerns. You could also ask for suggestions from family, friends and even the local hardware store staff for the best door type and service provider they would recommend.

Lastly, safety measures must be implemented during and after the project. Keep in mind the numerous cases of fatal accidents and physically debilitating injuries brought about by garage door malfunction due to improper installation or usage. During the course of the project, make sure safety gear and equipment are worn. Keep a first aid kit at bay. If you have kids at home or in the neighborhood, remind them not to go or play near the project area. The same rule applies to adults. The control push button for operating the door should be situated at a height out of the reach of children.

Once the door is finally installed, make sure it works perfectly all the time. Test its operation and reverse function on a monthly basis. Should there be any component amiss, have it repaired or replaced immediately.

The Real estate market can be an enjoyable, satisfying and lucrative experience for you. Whether you are a homeowner, a buyer, a landlord or simply a real estate enthusiast, get to know more about the latest in the real estate market now. Read more about it here: Short Sale Houses in Scottsdale, Foreclosed Homes for Sale in Scottsdale and Green Property in Scottsdale.

French doors not only enhance the look of the room but, they also serve the purpose of maintaining privacy. These double doors give a classic look to your house and are a great way to expose the house to a deck or a pool area. These doors will surely add some light and grace to the room. French patio doors add more elegance to the room than the normal sliding windows. French doors are a perfect option for renovation. Wrought iron French doors and arched top French doors have made a classic addition to the family of French doors. Let us now elaborate on its aspects and also illustrate steps to teach you how to install French doors.

These doors can be paired with doors having glass panes for most of its length. Most of the times, these doors open outwards and close towards each other. Since these doors are devoid of a center jam, they are believed to be safe and sturdy. Over the years, a lot of progress has been made in the design of French doors. These doors complement the look of all kinds of doors. Since these doors are made of glass, they are light in weight. French doors were mainly used in patios in the early days, though now they are also used extensively in interior designing. They are used mostly in homes, offices, libraries, etc. These doors bring more light to the rooms along with playing the role of room divider ideas thus, increasing the general outlook of the room enhancing the living room decoration.

At times, installing French doors can prove to be a bit complicated. Installation of French doors is not a job reserved for professionals, though in order to install them a bit of skill is required. The installation involves setting up of both doors from scratch rather than starting with just one. Hence, before doing this make sure that you are comfortable with it and have enough knowledge about all the information related to installing French doors. Many times you must have thought about “how to install French doors?”. If yes, then read the procedure below.

Installation of French doors

There are primarily two types of French doors; interior French doors and exterior French doors, though the method involved in installing both is the same

You can make French doors with the help of a measuring tape silicone caulking, shims, screws, screwdriver, insulation, paint and paintbrush.

The first is step is to measure the opening of the French door thoroughly and then place an order to purchase them.

After the French door has been delivered to you, remove all the plastic and paper coverings and packing. While doing this, make sure that you do not remove any of the pins attached to the French door.

Now, you can prepare the opening for the French door. If there exists an old door in its place, then remove it. While doing this, take care to protect the door and seal the floor where the door sill sets, by running a line of caulking on the floor.

Set it in such a way that it is plumb with the inside wall. The doors should be leveled well at the top as well as at the bottom. On a temporary basis, set a hinge jam with a screw which is placed 6 inches below the top.

Whenever required, use shims. The shims should be placed at the top as well as at the sides of the door.

On one side of the door, just above the hinge, place 2 screws. After doing this, again check if the door is leveled or not. The gap present between the doors and the house should be even all the way around. Take care that there is no bowed wood present.

Fix the rest of the door with screws. Now, you can un-clip the packing clips and check if both the doors are operating properly. You can now install the door hardware.

The gap present between the house frame and doors can be filled with fiberglass insulation.

The last step is to install the interior and exterior molding. In order to stop the air leaks, caulk the gap between the door frame and house.

If you want, you can paint the entire French door. Of all the home decorating ideas and procedures that are followed, installing French doors is one of the most sought after, due to their simple and quiet look it provides to the room. I am sure the procedure mentioned above on “how to install French doors?” will make the task of installing French doors easier than what you thought it would be.

Building exteriors are exposed to all the elements of nature, such as sun, rain, wind, and ice. The primary function of the external siding is to keep out the elements, as well as critters. Different types of the country present different challenges. The hot sun on the south and west faces of a building will cause greater wear, while the north and shady sides are more susceptible to moss, mold, and other moisture related problems.

Wood siding

Common problems with wood siding:

- Rot behind window flower boxes.
- Sidings covered with plants, ivy and other vines.
- Improper distance from the ground(should be 6″ – 8″, if not the siding is likely to rot from the bottom over time)
- Fading and peeling paint
- Splitting wood and nail pops.

It is recommended to inspect your siding ones a year. Look for rot, and cut back plants, ivy’s and other vines. The are very likely to trap moisture and eventually your siding could rot. If you find any rotted wood, you should replace it before it spreads. You should also look for dirt, mold, and moss and try to wash it off. If the paint on your wood siding is peeling off you should scrape off the loose particles and repaint to protect it from exposure.

Vinyl siding

Common problems with vinyl siding:

- Siding becomes buckled or bowed( caused by improper nailing )
- Becomes brittle in temperature at or below freezing and can break on impact
- Loose or missing planks
- Bad installation causes joints to separate

The most common problem with vinyl siding is actually defective installation procedures. You want to make sure there is no buckling or bowing, that the overlaps are big enough, and that the corner molding is overlapped by the one above. Its not unusual to have installers overlap them with the lower molding overlapping the one above, which will cause that water to enter the inside of the siding. You should never have to paint your vinyl siding, although you should clean it annually.

Metal siding

Common problems with aluminum and steel sidings:

- It will oxidize over time
- Color will fade
- It will dent

Aluminum siding wears well, although it can become dented, and it can be noisy. Because of expansion, it is not uncommon to hear it bang and pop when sunlight warms a side of the house. Aluminum siding has a baked-on enamel surface that stands up over time. It can fade over the years, and some homeowners paint the siding. If the siding has been painted, then it will require repainting on a regular basis. Caulking is sometimes used with aluminum siding. Often in the corners around windows and perhaps at overlaps or corners on the house. The caulking should be replaced when it is starting to tear off. Another thing to watch out for is the siding’s inability to allow moisture to escape through the wall to the outside. Aluminum planking is waterproof, and that’s good, but it should not be a moisture barrier. To keep it from becoming a moisture barrier, small holes appear along the bottom of each plank. If there aren’t enough holes or if the holes are blocked, the siding can trap moisture inside the wall. You should check for these holes and look for rot behind the siding by examining the header joists in the basement and along the outer floor edge in the living areas. As with the vinyl siding, you should watch the corner moldings, and clean it annually.

Stucco

Common problems with Stucco:

- Cracks in the surface
- Bulging from wall
- Separation from lath

Stucco is water resistant and weatherproof, but is permeable to water vapor to let moisture escape from the wall. If water does penetrate the stucco finish through cracks or there is moisture buildup in the wall, stucco can deteriorate. Watch for defects in gutters and downspouts, flashings, and drip edges that cause water to leak down behind the stucco.

There is a number of reasons why Stucco cracks, framing members in the wall can shrink. Especially at the floor levels where there tends to be the most shrinkage. Vertical and horizontal cracking can take place when there is foundation settlement. Cracks in random directions can appear during the curing of the stucco. These types of cracks may be hairline cracks in the outer surface only or be deeper, involving the undercoats as well. It is very important to seal the cracks, and have them repainted, otherwise water and moisture will seep in the cracks. It is recommended to have a stucco contractor to take a look at it.

Stucco can become detached from the wall due to trapped moisture. Bulging and sagging can be a sign of it. Often, homeowners will paint stucco after repairs are made using an impermeable paint. Stucco paint should be a permeable masonry paint which allows moisture to escape.

Brick exterior walls

Common problems:

- No weep holes for veneer brick
- Mortar joints crumbling on older brick structures
- Brick pulling loose from walls
- Spalling
- Cracking

If your siding is brick veneer you should be a aware of weep holes. Your wall will have an air space of about 1″ left behind the brick veneer to allow water passing through the brick to run down the wall. This water exits through the bottom row of brick through weep holes which are openings every foot or so along the bricks. You need to make sure that these holes are not clogged. Bowing, leaning, or distortion of the wall can be caused by mortar deterioration, interior framing problems, rafter spread, and foundation movement.

The most important thing to look on a brick veneer wall is detachment or separation of the veneer from the house. The brick ties can be improperly installed or can come loose. Sight along window and door openings where you might see the lean of detached veneer. A detaching veneer may have a decided bow to it or can show signs of cracking as it pulls loose and separates from the house. Spalling mostly happens to low quality bricks. When moisture enters the brick, and the moisture freeze, it is causing the brick to split or crumble.

Cracking in the wall can indicate foundation settling and movement. Step cracks on adjacent walls at a corner is a sign of footing failure at that corner due to soil weakness. Vertical cracks that run down to the foundation often signal settlement. Jagged, sharp edged cracks are an indication that movement is active. Distortion of the window framing can also indicate settlement of the structure. Are you having cracks above your window, that is most likely a sign of a rusted lintel. If the cracks are underneath the window it is very likely a settlement issue. Are you having any of those problems you would want to contact a contractor.

Composition boards

Common problems:

- Absorbs moisture if not properly protected.

You should pay particular attention to the condition of composition board and hardboard, as both are likely to absorb moisture if not properly protected. Boards can expand and bow out, causing a wavy appearance in the wall. They may be swollen at the edges and bottom from moisture absorption. The boards can swell, warp, and disintegrate. Repainting of hardboard siding needs to be done more often than wood siding due to the material’s lesser ability to hold paint.

Plywood siding

Common problems:

- Joints
- Improper distance from the ground
- Low permeability for water vapor

You should take a closer look at the joints for tightness, both vertical and horizontal. Horizontal joints are particularly vulnerable to water penetration and should have a flashing behind them or be scarfed rather than butted to prevent water from getting in.

Exterior plywood can expand and contract at different rates than the framing, causing joints to be pulled apart from the movement. Nails can be pulled out and panels can actually fall off. Relief joints may be provided to counteract this problem. Plywood siding has low permeability for water vapor and can absorb a great deal of moisture into the siding. The siding can easily warp if surface finishes are allowed to deteriorate. The distance from the ground should be 6″ – 8″.

Wood shingles and shakes

Common problems:

- Warping and cracking
- Buckling

Cedar, redwood, and cypress will weather naturally, but different exposures to sunlight and moisture causes uneven aging and coloring. Discoloration is not a problem, although some homeowners may be concerned when it’s uneven. Shingles and shakes may be stained for a uniform look and should be renewed periodically. They can also be painted, although once that’s done; they’ll always have to be painted.

Shingles and shakes can warp and crack from age. Shingles also cup and split when they’re not allowed to dry out. That is why it is important to cut off trees and plants that are shading ares of the siding, causing them to never be dried out.

Buckling shingles caused is by joints too tightly spaced, leaving no room for shingles to expand.

Nordic Home Inspection
http://www.nordichomeinspection.com
lars@nordichomeinspection.com

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Errors in installing a door could be expensive despite how easy the job may appear, since the door can end up with uneven gaps around it and not be able to latch properly. Most installation problems occur since the floor isn’t even beneath the doorway. You could have real troubles with the latch lining up properly if you don’t trim the jamb to make up for the variance created by a slightly sloping floor.

Before you order your door, verify the width of your opening. A good rule of thumb is to allow the width of the opening to be 2 to 2-1/2 inches wider than the door. The jambs as well as shims will use up this additional area by fitting into the opening and thus make it easier to install the door correctly. As a rule of thumb, the door must be two inches less than the opening, or in other words, an opening of 32 inches will require a door of 30 inches.

You must then check the length of your pre-hung door jambs. They may be too long, which means you may have to trim both sides so as to reduce the space beneath the door. You may have to trim both sides in order to reduce the space beneath the door if they would turn out to be too long.

The vertical sides of the opening must be plumb, which means that the edges will stand either exactly vertical or perpendicular next to a level horizontal line. A few minute variations from plumb are common, but openings which have a trimmer stud more than 3/8 inch out of plumb from top to bottom will translate your home improvement task of installing a door to a “mission impossible.”

Thorough and accurate measuring and trimming must precede installation. You will need some easy carpentry tools and some basic home improvement skills to easily master the techniques. Allow about an hour and a half for your first door, and as soon as you get the hang of it, your next door will go in two times as fast.

You can tell if a door is well installed if it closes tightly and silently and doesn’t swing open. A well-installed door has been trimmed in such a way that there is a extremely small gap of just below one-half inch next to the jamb. The different mortises (holes or slots cut into the wood) in which the hinges sit or the lockset slides, must also be trimmed with great care. Too deep and the door won’t shut correctly and can spring open; too shallow and creaks and scrapes will occur every time it moves. The key to the flawless mortise is a sharp chisel and a steady but light hand.

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