You can buy one at WalMart for under a hundred dollars. However, if you want it quality and stationary you will need to build it yourself.

Step 1- Set Post

You will need to set a post in the ground. If you know how to set a fence post, it’s the same thing. Just dig the hole a third of the length of the post. Fill in the hole with two 80 lb. bags of concrete. Set the post with a post level. Finally, mix water in the hole with a dig bar or shovel handle. You will need a post that is at least 8 feet tall. It depends on how high you want the shower to be.

Step 2- Drill Post

To put the PVC pipe through the post you will need to drill a large hole at the bottom. Use a wood boring (spade type) drill bit to bore a hole just barely large enough for the pipe to slip through. Slide the pipe through and plumb the post.

Step 3- Plumb Post

Buy some schedule 40 PVC pipe, some metal pipe straps, some two inch wood screws, and some PVC blue glue. Glue the pipe together as desired and screw the pipe straps to the post holding the pipe on the post.

Step 4- Attach Shower Head

Attach a threaded elbow on the end of the pipe where you want the shower head to be. Then use a close male threaded nipple to attach the shower head and pipe. Don’t forget to use three rounds of Teflon tape on nipple.

Step 5- Hook Up Water

For hose hook up, install a hose coupling on the end of the PVC pipe that goes through the bottom of the post. Hook up the hose whenever you want to take a shower or just leave it hooked up and turn the water on when showering. This is probably the easiest method.

You do have the option of running the home hot water line out and hooking it up to the shower. This is a better, but more expensive option.

Step 6- The Base

For an occasional shower you don’t need any type of base or drainage. It’s mostly for preference. You can build a small wood deck or get some large flagstones to put under the shower.

For further landscape information, please visit Outdoor Shower

Probably the most important factor when installing a basin in your bathroom is deciding where it’s located. That may sound ridiculously obvious but I am not just referring to ambiance and design. Of course it needs an area that will take the size of your new basin but what some people forget to take into account is how the family within the house will be using it.

In other words it needs to be at an acceptable height that is not going to cause back-breaking problems for the average-sized family member while doing their ablutions. If you are installing a pedestal basin the height of the pedestal will help you determine an appropriate height.

So you now have your new basin, and you are chomping at the bit to get it fixed in your bathroom. The wife has taken a few sedatives and locked herself in the cupboard, so you are ready to go. It is often a good tip to set it up temporarily with all the waterworks attached to ensure all is working as it should.

The Pedestal Washbasin

The beauty of the pedestal washbasin is they look very elegant and can hide any ugly supply or waste pipes. It is a good idea to purchase all the different parts for the basin at the same time, or otherwise as you will be running back and forth from the bathroom showroom trying to match up accessories you bought earlier. It should be taken into consideration that you will need to buy accessories such as taps separately from the basin itself. This is because there is a wide choice of taps on the market.

After fitting the taps and using a pencil and spirit level, mark the proposed position of the basin on the wall. It may be useful to call on a helper at this stage so you can temporarily sit the sink on the pedestal at the required height. How the basin affixes to the wall will depend largely on what type of washbasin you have bought. Different models will either screw into the wall, or hang on brackets.

Once the basin is firmly in place, slide the pedestal snugly under the basin. It is at this point that you can connect the supply pipes to the taps and also fit the trap to the basin waste. Returning to the basin you can now easily screw in the plughole and ensure that the plug is attached to the sink. To ensure the pedestal basin is protected you need to add a mastic seal to the top of the basin and at the foot of the pedestal and where the basin meets the wall.

The Wall-Hung Basin

It is estimated that the washbasin height suitable for most people is two foot eight inches. You also need to consider elbow room (wall hung basins are often found in single toilets where there is not so much space). Three foot eight inches should be allowed for elbow room. Again you are using the trusty pencil and spirit level to mark the position on the wall. As the basin does not have the extra support of the pedestal beneath, it is a good idea to fix an extra noggin at the back of the wall to support the brackets.

After the brackets are screwed into place and are in line, attach the taps and waste pipe to the basin. Unlike the pedestal model, the most wall-hung models come with brackets and the capacity to be able to screw it to the wall. So now you can hook the basin onto the brackets then screw the basin to the wall through the holes on the underside. The final part of the assembly is to fit the waste to the bottom of the basin. In some cases, wall-hung basins are designed to actually fit into the wall, so be aware that the plumbing for this design can be quite complex.

From Standard Bathroom Sinks Contemporary and Traditional to Granite Washbasins we have the lot.

Installing a bathtub isn’t exactly rocket science, but it does require solid plumbing, carpentry, and sometimes, tiling skills. Replacing an old bathtub with a new one is also a moderately difficult project. If the old tub is readily accessible, the project can move speedily; if you have to open a wall to remove the old tub and position the new bathtub, the task is much harder. In either case, the project is within a home handyman’s skills, although you will need a helper to move out the old tub and set in the new one. Make sure you have qualified yourself for the job and are comfortable attempting it. Rather than hiring a contractor to take over a halfway-completed project, it is better to consider employing one before you begin. Chances are you may need a professional plumber to make tube connections.

This article will help you install a new bathtub in your bathroom if you have already bought a new tub and don’t need to change the arrangement of your previous water supply pipes.

Your tools and material checklist should comprise the following:

• New Bathtub
• Hammer
• Pipe Wrenches
• Prybar
• Safety Glasses
• Level
• Pliers
• Adjustable Wrench
• Putty Knife
• Screwdriver
• Cold Chisel
• Tape Measure
• Pipe Caps

Preparing for the Installation

Firstly, the supporting frame supplied with the bath should be fitted (if required) according to the manufacturer’s instructions.

Next, fit the taps or mixer to the bathtub. When fitting the tap block, it is important to make sure that if the tap comes with a plastic washer, it is fitted between the bath and the taps. On a plastic bath, it is also sensible to fit a supporting plate under the taps unit to prevent strain on the bathtub.

Fit the flexible tap connectors to the bottom of the two taps using 2 nuts and olives (sometimes supplied with the tub).

Fit the plug-hole outlet by smearing mastic filler round the sink outlet hole, and then pass the outlet through the hole in the bath. Use the nut supplied by the manufacturer to fit the plug-hole. Examine the plug-hole outlet for an inlet on the side for the overflow pipe.

Next, fit the end of the flexible overflow pipe to the overflow outlet. After that, screw the pipe to the overflow face which should be fitted inside the bath. Make sure you use all of the supplied washers.

Connect the trap to the bottom of the waste outlet on the bathtub by winding the thread of the waste outlet with silicone mastic or PTFE tape, and screw on the trap to the outlet. Connect the bottom of the overflow tube in a similar manner.

The bath should now be ready to be fitted in its final position.

Removing Old Taps
If you need to replace old taps with new ones as a part of your installation, then the first thing you should do is disconnect the water supply. After doing so, turn on the taps to drain any water remaining in the system. The process of removing the existing taps can be quite problematic due to the restricted access that is often the case.

Use a basin wrench (crowsfoot spanner) or a tap tool to undo the nut that connects the supply pipes to the taps. Have a cloth ready for the remaining water that will come from the pipes. Once the supply pipes have been removed, use the same tool to loosen the nut that holds the taps onto the bath/basin. You will need to stop the single taps from turning during this process. Once the taps have been removed, the holes in the bath/basin will have to be cleaned of any old sealing compound.

Before moving on to fit the new taps, compare the pipe connections on the old taps to the new taps. If the old taps are longer than the new taps, then a shank adapter is required for the new taps to fit.

Installing the Bathtub

Using the two wooden boards under its feet, place the bathtub in the required position. The wooden boards are helpful in evenly spreading the weight of the bathtub over the area of the boards instead of focusing all the weight onto four small points.

The next goal is to ensure that the bathtub is leveled all round. This can be achieved by checking the spirit level and adjusting the feet on the bathtub until the spirit level reads level.

To install taps, fit the bottom of the furthest flexible tap connector to the appropriate supply pipe by making a compression join; then do the same for the other tap.

Switch on the water supply and check all joints and new pipework for leaks and tighten them if necessary. Fill the bathtub and also check the overflow outlet and the normal outlet for leaks.

Finally, fix the bath paneling as described in the manufacturer’s instruction manual.

Tiling and sealing around the bathtub should wait until the bathtub has been used at least once as this will settle it into its final position.

Fitting New Taps
If the tails of the new taps are plastic, then you will need a plastic connector to prevent damage to the thread. One end of the connector fits on the plastic tail of the tap and the other end provides a connection to the existent supply pipes.

If you need to fit a monobloc, then you will require reducing couplers, which connects the 10mm pipe of the monobloc to the standard 15mm supply pipe.

Next, position the tap in the mounting hole in the bath/basin ensuring that the washers are in place between the tap and the sink. Secure the tap in place with the manufacturer provided backnut. Once the tap is securely in place, the supply pipes can be connected to the tails of the taps. The taps can either be connected by using corrugated copper piping or with normal tap connectors. The former type should be connected to the tap ends first, tightening only by hand. The supply pipes can later be connected to the other end. Tighten both ends with a spanner after both ends have been connected.

Tiling Around the Bathtub
In the area where the bath meets the tile, it is necessary to seal the joins with a silicone rubber caulking. This is important as the fitting can move enough to crack a rigid seal, causing the water to penetrate the wall between the bath and the tiling, leading to complications with dampness and possible leaks to the ceiling below.

You can choose from a variety of coloured sealants to blend in your fixtures and fittings. They are sold in tubes and cartridges, and are capable of sealing gaps up to a width of 3mm (1/8 inch). If you have a larger gap to fill, you can fill it with twists of soaked newspaper or soft rope. Remember to always fill the bathtub with water before sealing, to allow for the movement experienced when the tub is in use. The sealant can crack fairly early if you do not take into account this movement before sealing.

Alternatively, ceramic coving or quadrant tiles can be used to edge the bath or shower tray. Plastic strips of coving, which are easy to use and cut to size, are also easily available on the market. It is advisable to fit the tiles using water-resistant or waterproof adhesive and grout.

Read up on smoking a turkey at the Smoking A Turkey website. Info about cranberry beans may be found at the Cranberry Beans website. Do you want to find out about mermaid syndrome? View the Mermaid Syndrome website

A blocked toilet is no one’s idea of fun – nor is trying to clear it. However, it is a relatively simple task to unclog a toilet, something that most people can easily do themselves without needing to pay a professional plumber.

Before you begin work, make sure you have the necessary tools for the job. Depending on how difficult the job proves to be you will need: rubber gloves, a bucket, a plunger (or rag head mop), a plumber’s snake/auger (or wire clothes hanger), chemical drain cleaner (or caustic soda) and clearing rods. In case things get messy, you might also want to protect the floor near the toilet with a few layers of newspaper, or some old sheets that you might not need anymore.

With those things in place, here is what you need to do…

First try and shift the blockage using water. Slowly pour half a bucket of warm water into the toilet. The pressure of this water bearing down could be enough to shift the blockage. If the toilet remains blocked try repeating the process. If the toilet is still blocked then it’s time to get to work with a plunger (if you don’t have a plunger use a rag head mop).

Using your plunger try pushing backwards and forwards into the toilet. This push-pull motion is needed to try to force water through the blockage and break it up. Different plungers offer you different chances of success so choose your plunger carefully (if unsure, ask for advice at your local hardware or DIY store).

A plumber’s snake is a flexible auger, which can be used to clear clogged or blocked plumbing. This device uses a flexible clearing rod with a hand crank. There is a special auger device at the end that is used to break up blockages or else retrieve them (retrieval might be the safest option). If you have a plumber’s snake drop it into the toilet as far down as possible. When you have reached the obstruction with the auger, clamp and turn the cranked handle. Then either push or pull the blockage to dislodge it.

A wire clothes hanger can be used in the absence of a plumber’s snake. You need to first straighten it out, and then poke it as far into the blockage as you can get it. Your first aim is to wiggle it around and try to disrupt the blockage as much as you can. If you can loosen anything up, then try to fish parts of the blockage out with it

Another approach is to use a chemical drain cleaner or caustic soda to clear the blockage. But be careful. Before you pour anything down your toilet, make sure that it is a product that is specifically marked as being safe for use with porcelain. Read the manufacturer’s directions carefully and make sure you are wearing those rubber gloves. Never mix chemical drain cleaners, only use one type of drain cleaner at a time.

By now you will have hopefully succeeded in unclogging your toilet. If you have not, then you will need to call in a plumber.

Learn More : Clorox Toilet Wand Or Toilet Bowl Cleaner

Bathroom renovation is never an inexpensive undertaking. For that reason it is a good idea to calculate how much it will cost you before you start throwing out the existing one in order to determine whether you can actually afford it or if it is a better idea to wait a few months to collect enough money. It is impossible to calculate bathroom renovation cost to every cent because as with most home improvement projects, there is always a chance of unpleasant surprises which are impossible to predict before the renovation project. Nevertheless, you can determine bathroom renovation cost very accurately if you pay attention to the following 5 things and add another 10 to 15 percent to the sum for unforeseen expenses:

1. New bathroom fixtures. This is the easiest part of calculating the cost of your renovation project. All you need to do is to determine what you need and how much it will cost you. The overall price of new bathroom fixtures depends greatly on the size of your bathroom, fixtures you want to replace and your personal preferences when it comes to style, design and materials.

2. Scale of your renovation project. Obviously, the more complicated and extensive the renovation the higher the price. Relocation of the fixtures, adding in new ones, etc. dramatically increases bathroom renovation cost. So if you would like to stay within a set budget, you are highly recommended to think through your wishes very well.

3. Removal of the old bathroom. Removing old ceramic tiles, bathtub, toilet, etc. is hard labor but it will cost you a great deal of money if you hire someone to do it for you. You cannot ruin anything really if you remove the old bathroom yourself which is why it is worth to consider making it a DIY project, of course, if you have the time.

4. Installation of new bathroom. Theoretically, you can install your new bathroom yourself but it is a good idea to leave over the installation part to the professionals if you are not absolutely confident in your DIY skills. This will of course increase the costs of your project but then again, ruining your new bathroom would even be more expensive.

5. Special issues. Before installing a new bathroom, it is a good idea to deal with any special issues such as mold, a leak, electrical problems, etc. They will probably require professional help which will increase the cost of the renovation, however, installing a new bathroom without dealing with mold for instance will not solve anything. Even more, it will quickly ruin the appearance of your new bathroom, not to mention that it may even jeopardize your health.

Do not let the average bathroom renovation cost stop you from creating your dream bathroom because there are ways to make it a less expensive project. Find more bathroom renovation cost tips at http://www.bathroom-design-tips.com and learn how to make your dream bathroom a reality.

Different tile suppliers’ come with different kinds of tiling options to serve different needs of clients. Moreover, they have become so competitive and thus have been coming up with features that can help them to come on top among business counterparts.

There are various options in the market that can divert your mind for home improvement or decoration projects. A number of bathroom wall tiles will be found that can make you confused in the selection. Well, modern interior decorators and tiles suppliers have come with the results that illustrate that wall tiles are easy to install and maintain.

This article will help you to understand this in more detail.

Easy to install

Tiles can be easy or tough to install depending on the kinds of tiles you have selected and the way they are getting installed. Applying tiles on the surface is not simple or easy. It’s actually a daunting task that can boggle anyone’s mind.

Rather than trying to install tiles by your own, it would be better to take help of installers as they can do the task in a better way. They come with enough knowledge and skills to deliver better results.

The very first step they take is the clearing of surface completely. Leaving any kind of debris or dust stone can create problems in the installation. Another major step they follow is making use of right size of tiles for the walls. If the bathroom is large in size, they ask the client to purchase the large sized tiles; kind of tiles do not matter here.

By making use of updated technology based tools and quality materials, staff get success in proper installation of bathroom wall tiles.

Easy to maintain

Of course, it is our duty to maintain the cleanliness and hygiene of our bathrooms. For this, we can opt for various tasks like regular cleaning or cleaning through professional cleaners at specific intervals of time. Apart from these, what we can do is to make use tiles that are easy to clean and maintain to avoid any more hard work in this regard.

Bathroom wall tiles which are present with modern tile suppliers’ are easy to maintain. With simple cleaning efforts, you can maintain the hygiene of your personal bathrooms. You can also make use of such color or pattern of tiles that suit the area and gets dirtier less. Travertine, slate, quartz and several other options of tiles are available with traders.

Thus, from the above discussions, it can be said that modern markets are flourishing with easy to install and easy to maintain bathroom wall tiles that can be used in our sweet homes.

This article is about Bathroom Wall Tiles. Know more about Bathroom Wall Tiles

The popularity of liquid bath soap over the regular types has also brought the needed lift to increase the sale of wall mount soap dispensers. Convenience is experienced because users will simply have to push a lever to release a controlled amount of liquid soap instead of grabbing a bar to enjoy a bath. This bathroom accessory has become an integral part of probably all shower stalls, not just in homes but also in fitness centers, spas and other public facilities.

A typical wall mount soap dispenser holds only 1,250 ml sanitary sealed refill; physically small in size and footprint so as not to crowd a regular shower stall. Most designs include an extra large and clear site window to monitor the amount of liquid soap left in the bathroom accessory. It is also provided with an easy and convenient liquid dispersal system for a one-hand push button operation.

Since wall mount soap dispensers have a fixed lifetime that is good for up to 1,700 hand washes, homeowners and public facilities have to do replacements. With the current designs available in the market, installation is typically a DIY solution that is left to homeowners and facility handymen to execute. Two methods are commonly used and the installation steps of this handy bathroom accessory are as follows.

Adhesive Installation

1. Choose the most appropriate location. One that could be easily reached without being in the way and does not limit movement as one takes the shower.

2. The surface where the dispenser is to be mounted must be cleaned thoroughly with soap and water and left to dry before applying rubbing alcohol, to free it from substances and residue that limit adhesion to the surface.

3. Apply adhesive on the specified part of the dispenser and wait for at least five minutes. Mount the dispenser on the wall and press it firmly to allow a thorough bond.

4. Then depending on the directive, wait and follow the curing time (adhesive) before finally using the dispenser.

Mounting Screws

1. However, if the user decides to use the mounting screws option, he must feel the actual location of the wall studs since the idea is for the screws to hit the wall studs. Remember that most wall mount soap dispensers are provided with four mounting screws, but two screws can already provide the needed grip.

2. Mark the position of the screws, drill holes and install plastic expanders on them. Position the mounting bracket, insert the screws and tighten, but not so much as the plastic expander may break.

3. Then, attach the soap dispenser smack right into the mounting bracket.

The installation procedure of a bathroom accessory like a soap dispenser is easy. Users will just have to follow manufacturer’s guidelines to mount the add-on device in shower bath stalls successfully.

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Fiberglass showers are advantageous due to their durability and water resistance. However, they are prone to certain repairs. If sharp metal objects puncture the shower, water would start leaking.

You can plug the holes using resin or fiberglass cloth. Run the rotary tool around the edge of the hole and cut the fiber glass at an angle of 45 degrees using the grinding bit. Then, with the help of a razor blade cut the splinters or burrs. Use sandpaper (80-grit) to smoothen the edge of the hole.

Now, you can use a pair of scissors or razor to cut the fiber glass cloth to the size of the hole. Cut at least 4 to 5 pieces of the cloth in decreasing size. One of the cloth pieces should be wider than the hole. Decrease width by ¼ inch when you cut the rest of the pieces.

Take the largest sheet and spread the fiberglass resin generously on both sides using a paintbrush. Place it over the hole. Repeat the same process for the rest of the pieces in the decreasing order of size and paste it one on top of the other. Allow the patch to dry thoroughly for at least a day.

Use sandpaper (200-grit) and smoothen the surface of the patch. Wipe away the residue and then apply the fiberglass primer on the surface. With a hand trowel, apply fiberglass filler and smoothen the surface further. Leave the patch to dry for a day. Finally, use the sandpaper to give a finishing the repairing process and paint the area with a gel that matches the color of the fiberglass paint.

About Author:
Kum Martin is an online leading expert in education. He also offers top quality articles like:
How To Draw, How To Build

Replacing the septic drain field is easily the biggest real estate expenses; it can run from $3,000 to $10,000+. If you’re trying to sell your home, septic issues will surely derail the deal.

So, the whole point of septic system maintenance is to avoid drain field failure. The septic tank’s purpose is to trap solids and oils, and the drain field’s purpose is to absorb waste water. If solids or oil flow through the pipes into the drain field, then it becomes clogged, fails, and overflows onto the yard.

Here’s a proactive list to keep the drain field in good working order, save money, and avoid septic system problems:

1) Don’t use bleach in washing machine or other harsh chemicals that end up in the septic tank: The septic system relies on bacteria to break down waste. These harsh chemicals kill the bacteria causing solid waste to accumulate and flow into the drain field pipes.

2) Too much lint in washing machine: Lint from the washing machine is another solid that can clog the drain field. A great, easy strategy to save money on the septic system is to get a lint filter. They’re available for $20.

3) Garbage disposer: If too much food is put down the garbage disposal, the bacteria can’t eat it fast enough. If you have a septic, you should try to use the trash can instead of the garbage disposal as much as possible.

4) Flushing sanitary napkins, tampons, condoms, etc: All these items end up in the septic tank and can quickly cause it to clog.

5) Pouring Grease and Oil down the sink: It seems natural to pour grease and used oil down the sink, but it can cause the drain field to fail. You should let it cool, pour it into a container, and put it in the trash. It’s a little habit that can save a lot of money.

6) Draining Hot Tub too quickly: If the drain field soil tries to absorb too much water, it will overflow. Then, you won’t be able to flush the toilets. Try draining the hot tub in a couple of stages, or have everyone wait a couple of hours before taking a shower.

7) Large Party with too much water usage: Many guests in our home flushing toilets continuously causes the same problem as draining the hot tub. You could try lowering the fill line in the back of your toilets during the party.

Paving or installing pool over leach field: The leach field needs oxygen to work property. Be sure to check the septic system location before paving or putting in a pool.

9) Driving cars or machinery over drain field: The drain field consists of a series of small, plastic pipes to distribute the waste water. These pipes can easily be crushed.

Here’s a detailed list of possible Septic System Costs. Erik Pearson is a real estate agent serving Spring Hill, TN and is the author of multiple articles covering a variety of real estate topics. Please visit us at spring hill tn homes for sale.

Want to update a plain or boring bathroom mirror on a budget? Try this fun DIY task. Creating a Shabby Chic Bathroom Mirror is an easy task that can be accomplished in 1 weekend.

To start this Shabby Chic Bathroom Mirror Paint Technique task you will need to spend at least 1 weekend, but maybe a little more time.

Any real wood or inexpensive plain fake wood Bathroom Mirror are ideal for this Shabby Chic Paint Approach. If you don’t have a frame on your mirror, then try building 1 out of a picture frame or some inexpensive crown molding. Then apply this paint treatment.

Now, begin sanding the surface of your plain Bathroom Mirror. As soon as you have the surface lightly sanded, you ought to wipe off the dust with a clean dry clothe. An old white t-shirt will work perfectly here. You could also use liquid sander.

Now, you’re ready to put a coat of primer. If you are utilizing a inexpensive fake wood Bathroom Mirror this really is a very crucial step. Your Shabby Chic Paint Approach will not stick to your area should you do not sand and then prime your Bathroom Mirror surface.

If you would like a rough a lot more rustic Shabby Chic Bathroom Mirror try putting the primer on with one of the 4″ brushes. This will give texture and produce the appear of real wood. If you prefer the smoother appear you are able to roll the paint on with any type of paint roller. A foam roller will create the smoothest surface.

Allow your primer to dry completely.

Put on a coat of your base paint. This is either a sand color or tan color. You could do a yellowish tan. This paint should not be the actual colour you want your desk to end up, but the colour you want to show through whenever you finish the Shabby Chic Bathroom Mirror.

Now you’re prepared to paint your surface with the true color you wish it to be. I always recommend painting a white or antique white color for true Shabby Chic Bathroom Mirror.

Do not be scared to choose a bright white simply because the Shabby Chic Bathroom Mirror Paint Technique process will tone down the appearance from the stark white considerably if you would like.

As soon as your white shabby chic Bathroom Mirror colour has dried you are prepared to start roughing it up. Start by using the sand paper to rough up edges and other areas that would typically be utilized over time.

As soon as you have finished sanding the Bathroom Mirror area wipe the surface down having a clean dry cloth. That old white t-shirt will perform well here again. You are able to stop at this point, but if you would like to go the additional mile you can use a mixture of wood stain and glaze to darken your piece. This darkening will mimic years of dirt and also the aging process. If you use an antique white you do not have to do this.

Start by mixing you paint and glaze in a plastic container. Use a white rag or an additional old t-shirt to rub the stain onto the Bathroom Mirror.

You are able to do this procedure until you achieve the Shabby Chic Bathroom Mirror appearance you want for your vintage master bathroom, powder room, or small girl’s bathroom.

The author has written more about pottery barn mirror and shabby chic mirror on his site, check them out: http://www.shabbychicmirror.net/ and pottery barn mirror.

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